car very hard to start after distributor change

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stucross
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car very hard to start after distributor change

Post by stucross »

Hi all,
So I recently put new electronic dizzy, coil & plugs leads in the EK. I have a red 202 in there and the dizzy was making some whining bearing noises so thought I'd take that as an excuse to replace with new parts. The plugs are properly gapped, the dizzy is aligned properly by finding top dead centre etc with the assistance of a mechanic mate, the coil is receiving just over 12v as recommended. I've checked the timing with timing light. But the engine takes forever to fire up. It cranks fine, but literally takes at least 5-10 mins before it'll very barely and badly fire up. After a minute or so she starts to run fine and if the engine is warm after driving it starts a lot easier. Even changed the fuel pump and filter in case it was a fuel issue.

Any ideas?? :? :?
EK283
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Re: car very hard to start after distributor change

Post by EK283 »

Do you still have the original wiring for the ignition ? I did this once to a chev and the ignition wire was a resistance wire built in the loom from factory, and would limit the power to the coil on start up.
Try running a temp wire for the ignition and see if that changes anything.

Greg
Last edited by EK283 on Fri Dec 08, 2017 4:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Errol62
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Re: car very hard to start after distributor change

Post by Errol62 »

Sounds suspiciously like a mixture issue. Is the vacuum advance signal leaking by chance? Causing lean mixture consistent with described symptoms.


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ardiesse
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Re: car very hard to start after distributor change

Post by ardiesse »

No, I'd go for ignition troubles. What you identified as bearing noises in your old distributor may just have been the rubbing block running dry on the distributor cam.

I haven't done too much with late-model (read 1980s) electronic distributors, but here's something to try:

Pull the spark plugs to make life a little easier on your poor starter motor. Pull the centre high-tension lead out of the distributor cap and set it up so there's a quarter-inch gap to a grounded metal part. Crank the motor over. You should see a good, fat spark that should even bridge a half-inch gap. If you have a strong spark, then ignition timing's at fault.

I don't know if electronic distributors were designed to work with a ballast resistor in the ignition circuit. The EKs don't have ballast resistors, but all red-motored points-ignition cars do. Is your distributor taken from a blue/black motor, or is it a points distributor upgraded to (say) a Pertronix electronic module?

If your distributor has come from an '80s Commodore, then I'd suggest using the Commodore ignition coil as well. And you'd need to duplicate the ballast resistor setup, if the VC-VK Commodores had them too. It may be that your electronic distributor is operating on too high a battery voltage.

If your distributor is a points model upgraded with a Pertronix module, there are a few "gotchas" which can stop them from operating:
- make sure to disconnect the original condenser.
- On the early distributors (I'm thinking the grey motor Bosch distributors), there's an earth braid inside the distributor which goes from the breaker plate to the vacuum advance. If the braid breaks, the ground connection's no good, and the Pertronix unit won't function properly. (Points still work OK with a broken braid, though.)
- There's supposed to be a Bakelite washer between the drive gear and the distributor body. They have almost all fallen to bits these days. If you can move the drive gear and shaft up and down about half a millimetre, then you've lost the washer. You need to replace it (or fake it with shims, or a steel washer ground to the right thickness). If the washer's not in place, then the alignment between the magnet sleeve and the pickup goes out of whack, and the Pertronix unit becomes unreliable.

And finally, if all else fails, get your old points distributor, knock the roll pin out, slide the shaft out, lubricate it (checking that the bushes aren't too worn), then wipe some grease over the distributor cam, and fit new points.
Job done.

Rob
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stucross
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Re: car very hard to start after distributor change

Post by stucross »

hi all,
So sorry its taken me this long to reply & I do very much appreciate the time and effort of your detailed responses - this forum and its members always come through! :clap:

I must admit some of the suggestions and details are above my level of understanding. And I may have not been as clear in my initial post as I could have been. maybe the below info might help clarify things and narrow it down, but if not I think I'll just bite the bullet and get an auto elec involved.

- the electronic ignition, distributor and coil were upgraded years ago when I put the red motor in and I haven't had any issue until the recent bearing noise (if that what it was)
- I bought a replacement coil and distributor from a supplier that was made for the red motor so should just be a straight swap - or so I thought

Does this narrow the advice or what I should attempt at all?
Thanks guys & gals :smile22:
gpi
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Re: car very hard to start after distributor change

Post by gpi »

tell us about the wires coming from the new distributor
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Devilrod
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Re: car very hard to start after distributor change

Post by Devilrod »

Hard to say from your description, is it having trouble firing? Or is it struggling to crank over. If the dizzy is a little out it will make it hard to fire / crank over so being its the only thing changed it would be the first place to start. Need to make sure the dizzy was dropped in in the right position.
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