Headlights

[Bluehaze]

Hi Ross.
They draw roughly the same as Halogen but produce about three times the amount go light. I agree, the problem with glare is very real, and even though I'm not quite as old, I'm still irritated by the glare of the after-market fitted ones in an urban environment. I've been doing some reading up, as I'm considering upgrading from the old sealed beams.
The problem is, unlike halogen lamps, where light emanates from a small filament, it comes from a (larger) glass tube. The light produced is in the form of an arc of exited xenon gas, where the light energy is produced by the transition of electrons between orbital shells. I probably didn't need to go into such detail.
Anyhow, the point here, because the light source from a halogen is more of a pinpoint, it's more focused, and less scattered as it is reflected from the headlamp reflector.
A bit like how a light bulb in a room will have objects within the room cast sharper shadows than the same room Illuminated by a fluorescent light.
The cars with factory hid set ups have reflectors designed to better focus the light, where the after-market set ups do not, as they just have a hid tube inside a standard reflector. I'd say that's why, at least here in Mexico, they are NOT ADR compliant. So I suppose if the Toggies are on their game, they can complement your hid fitted car with a lovely yellow sticker!

I think I'll go the H4, (yes, I'd like to retract the earlier suggestion of considering the HID, and do my homework first. Homework done now..) seeing as they are now available in a reflector with the curved glass, so they look like the old Lucas with the BPF tungsten globe.

[rosco]

Good call, Richard...
I further ponder on the effect running in fog has on these.. if I'm not wrong - by your information, aftermarket HID's are not as well focussed on projecting light to where it is needed... but more of a spectrum spread...
If this is the case - you'd be better off dropping back to your parkers and hope you don't get a whack up the rear....

I know this is absolutely way off topic... but I'm also "over" those imbeciles who run with both head and fog lights on.... the simply don't understand the principle of "fog" lights....

Being located so low, they afford a sub bonnet spread of light.... onto the immediate roadway ahead.... and thus, do not throw a beam into the fog which is reflected into the driver's eyes....

It was, and probably still is - illegal to drive with both fog and head lamps illuminated... well, it was when I went for my driver's licence....

The amount of vehicles running with all that glare to oncoming traffic is unbelievable... sorry, believable... but oh so errant - and annoying if not dangerous.....

Please folk, if you are going to run with fog lights - turn off your heads.... and vice-versa...

Thanks for the info, Richard - no, I won't be going the HID path.. the H4's (even with their flat faces hidden behind domed protectors) are probably equal to the best lights I have on any of my cars.. the 200 included...

frats,
Rosco

[BILLY BLACKARROW]

Has anyone used a headlight switch from another later model car but still managed to keep it looking original.
BILLY

[rosco]

Hi Billy,
you could probalby go with an EJ/HD/HR switch - the only reason I can see for doing this is that it has a dome (interior) light switch built in to the knob switch arrangement...

I can't spruke for any other unit, but I must ask..... why? what are you wanting to add to the original arrangement..?

I, for one - would love an ACC position on our ignition switch....

As you are aware - the knob on our lighting switch is not a "grub screw" arrangement - but a captive shaft ........ locked into the actual switch by a spring loaded retainer....

By changing to a more modern switch - you might like to source an additional wiper knob....this is "the" one which has a grub screw and lends itself well to being fitted to any other unit - you might have to file down the shaft or drill out the wiper knob... even though it has the black insert or silver button (priceless)...
Of course, if you're keen to retain the original look of that knob - you could prise out the wiper centre and press back in a lighting switch knob insert.....

If you got carried away, you could use the button of the wiper switch knob to connect up to your high beam and fit a relay.... and thus, could effect a "flash" button.....


frats,
Rosco

[BILLY BLACKARROW]

Hi All
Had a look at my headlight switch to day (there is a lot of terminals) who knows what goes where I don't mean the wire colour I mean dash, park, lights etc as I will be using a aftermarket wiring harness which has the wires marked on them where they go . I will have the colour codes in the workshop manual but I don't have the manual at the moment
Thanks for your help
BILLY

[rosco]

Hi Billy,
the terminals are as follows -

The rear has two screws - one is the complete entire lighting switch supply input from the B+ terminal from the voltage regulator. Wire is red.
The other is the output from this bar. It goes to both the fuse holder and ignition switch supply. This is a double wired terminal (from memory) Wires are red.

One one side of the switch there are three terminals - the rear one is for the parking lights - wire is white.
The middle one is for tail and number plate lights - it also has a solid link to the dimmer switch input. Wire is black
The front one is for your headlights - it comes via that bi-metal vibrating plate. It is the supply to your headlight dimmer switch. Wire is light blue.

On the other side of the switch there are two terminals.
The rear one is the connection for the optional clock. Wire is red. This is an un-switched supply.

The front one is the instrument panel lighting supply. Wire is grey.

If you intend to fit a relay to operate your headlights. I would suggest tapping into the rear bus-bar for supply - it is not fused, but comes direct from the starter motor solenoid via the voltage regulator B+ terminal.
You need to ensure that there isn't a fuse here - but to fit a resetting circuit breaker - the amperage of which depending on how many watts you intend to use..... try to keep pretty close to just above this wattage - a huge breaker will strain the wiring if you over rate your demand... but you need to exceed any intended wattage moderately or it will trip prematurely.

The headlight relays can be driven from the dimmer switch outputs - light green for high beam, tan for low.
These relays should have fuses to protect the wiring - one each for both beams, on both sides -i.e. four fuses.

In this manner - you should have at least one beam (or more) to safely pull over at night should a short develop.

The resetting circuit breaker mentioned and I would seriously suggest be fitted - will cause supply to become intermittent - the length of "off" being how serious any short is - but it will click in/out and is your safest investment to ensure you have lighting to bring the vehicle to a halt...
This circuit breaker will only trip if something shorts from the lighting switch bus to the relay - but it's at full supply all the time the battery is connected - even with the headlights switched off.

By using the existing lighting switch terminal for your dimmer switch - you are also protecting any short which develops between the lighting switch and the dimmer switch, and the dimmer switch to your relays.
The bi-metal vibrating plate will cause the relays (and lights) to flicker if a fault exists in that portion.

In the above installation - you have all of your existing tail and parking light wiring protected by the fuse holder - and now incorporate heavier gauge wiring and relays for higher demand head-lighting.

All of this is fully protected.

You would also be well advised to increase the gauge of wiring to the headlamps - which, if using the above relays - requires running independent leads to each of the four lamp beams.

Let me know if you need more.

frats,
Rosco

[BILLY BLACKARROW]

Thanks rosco
You have helped me out a lot lately I appreciate your wealth of knowledge, if I need anything else I will give you a call
Thanks Again
BILLY

[rosco]

I would not say I'm a "wealth" of knowledge, Billy - but the stuff I do understand, as far as I'm able to - I'm more than happy to help folk out...
That's what we're here for....

Yes, certainly - don't be afraid to ask... but you should by now be aware - I tend to post big replies...

frats,
Rosco

[RedWhiteFB]

I have to say, Rosco, you've been positively restrained and brief in this post

Cheers,
Aaron.

[Finny]

Was looking for some info on headlight options and this is great.

Rosco, fog lights without fog is still a nice fine in Queensland.
Just seems that a lot of people don't know it's illegal, or Don't care.

My headlights are also too dull, but I was looking at led bulbs.
But I don't know if they have all the other issues with relays etc.

Has any one found or used led bulbs for headlights.

[rosco]

Yes, Finny - it is the same down here...... fog lights are legal in inclement weather only.
Many people simply don't know how to turn them off.... others use that excuse when confronted by the constabulary.... but, there are far too many who believe they afford a safety component... which, to me - is rubbish.
I note that some European vehicles have a fog tail light which is much brighter than the brake lamps... that one is particularly annoying - and unsafe....

LED bulbs - I had a chat with Bluehaze recently. He tells me that without specialist lenses and reflectors, it is very difficult to get LED bulbs to focus an appropriate beam..... LED's have a broad spread emitting spectrum - I'm guessing that might be why the blasted things are so bright.... to ensure sufficient light is shed on the desired area - as well as the annoying "stray" content which hits us older folk in the eyes and blinds us...

Vehicles fitted with these specialist lenses and reflectors can be identified by the very strange strange circular, if not coronal lamp face.
This is not to be confused with the LED "running" lights - which are also super-brights, but have precious little beam.... they are designed to be seen - not see with.....

Relays are easy as in the above, but it is probably more appropriate to replace/upgrade wiring then add relays to your installation.

The wiring in our old buses is now over 50 years old.... it has survived quite happily serving low wattage incandescent bulbs and sealed beams.... subjecting them to the heavier demands of halogens is not appropriate.

When you do any of this, make sure you also upgrade the earth lead... it actually carries more load than the positive... especially if you connect both the high and low beams when on high...... or fit additional "driving" lights etc.....each unit should have its own earth.

The other thing I might suggest when placing higher demands on your electrical system - is to fit a designated additional earth lead from the battery negative post to the body - as is done on later models.....
there is an earth from the back of the voltage regulator to the body - the three leads from the generator connect the battery negative from the engine earth bolt.
An additional lead of say 40amp capacity from the battery earth to a substantial body fitting (eg. upper radiator support cross-member) will ensure that the voltage regulator earth is not over-stretched.
If an alternator with inbuilt voltage regulator is fitted - this earth lead is a necessity...

frats,
Rosco

[Finny]

I followed the link on the previous page and they supply a warm white led headlight bulb.
I have asked them to send me more information.

I was a bit embarrassed yesterday. I was testing some led strip lighting.
Initially was using a spare battery and all worked fine, however when I used the battery in the car = nothing.
I had read the some cars can't use the led's, so I disconnected the leads to just use the battery = still nothing.
Try the battery on the bench = works fine. Car battery nothing.

Apparently led's only work positive to positive, you can't swap the wires.
I had the car battery terminals on the wrong way, positive was to Earth?
Obviously the car can still run when terminals reversed, and nothing blew up.
I did get a couple a small shocks getting out of the car, but thought is was winter static electricity.
Has been this way for several weeks since i did a battery swap with one of my son's.
Glad the led only worked one way, otherwise I wouldn't have known.
I wonder if my that could have caused the not starting / slow turnover issue when the engine was hot.

[rosco]

yes, Finny - LED's are "diodes"... allow positive to run one way and not the other... they also allow negative to run the other way, but not the other....

You can implement some pretty "nifty" arrangements using LED's..... so that they don't "work" when current runs through them, but do when the current is reversed....
As in, if you connect them through the input terminals of a relay - they won't work if the relay is energised... but will illuminate when it isn't..... using earth detection through the relay coil.... this is very useful when you want to warn yourself that a relay is not closed ... and also to add an ignition breaking circuit to your coil..... lots here, Finny.... your imagination is all that limits your installation...


frats,
Rosco

[thebrotherj]

Billy, I've just sent a huge PM to Aaron - pm me your email and I'll forward it...
It's a blow-by-blow description of my installation, the connections and needed components.

frats,
Rosco

Hey Rosco,
If it's not too much to ask, would you still be able to dig out the this PM you sent to Aaron and forward it on to me? I understand it's a big ask, digging back to 2014... but if you have a spare few minutes, I'd greatly appreciate it!
I'm keen to retain the factory insurance systems in my headlight circuit as I attempt to swap my Lucas glass lenses onto an H4 reflector setup then install a four-fuse/relay setup. I'll be resistance testing my existing wiring (replacing if needed) and sourcing a new headlight switch also.
Huge thanks in advance.
Joe

[rosco]

Joe,
I went looking for the PM I sent Aaron - all my PM's pre 2015 have been deleted.
You might be able to ask Aaron if he still has mine though. Failing this, I should be able to remember what I did to make the conversion.
The dual circuit, 4 fuse relay box was purchased from a local auto-sparky here in Croydon - it was an expensive unit, but I believe a warranted commitment.

I re-wired the entire system from the lighting switch. The wiring from the switch to the relay unit does not be of huge ability, the main draw on it is the tail-lamps (two globes).

I used heavy duty marine (tinned) wiring from the relay unit to the lamps. These were run in conduits which are located under the fenders and secured by rubber lined clamps.
The entire external conduits are weather-proof with flexible convoluted conduits from the rigid to the headlamps.

I also ran my parking/indicator leads through these.

The only reason I decided to incorporate this was to remove visual clutter from the engine bay..... installation had to be as good as I could effect due to the security of the conduits - and any event requiring access would prove most difficult.

The connections were quite simple from the lighting switch.
The main inputs to the relay originate from the dipper switch output. The lighting switch provides supply to the dipper switch and is protected by the thermo-blade vibrator. Outputs from the relay unit are protected by four fuses - one to each beam of both headlamps.

With H4's you will be amazed at how effective your headlamps are - unlike modern vehicles, the height of our headlamps affords a greater base height from which to spread the beam.
I stuck with the supplied halogen globes - they are most certainly sufficient for even the darkest of nights.

If you have an alarm system - it is a simple connection to effect headlamp operation through the relay unit - I protected mine using a small diode in the signal line to prevent reverse polarity when the headlamps are in normal operation.

By using the relay unit - you remove almost all stress placed upon the original wiring loom, the draw of sealed beams or original globes is totally removed from the OEM circuits.
Supply to the relay need be of reasonable weight - your headlamps are totally dependent on sound connections and secure cabling.
I would not "quick blow" fuse the supply to the unit - but suggest you follow my lead (pun intended) by fitting an in-line resetable fuse, should a short or overload occur. This ensures that your headlamps will return after a short (pun intended) absence of overload..... as opposed to losing them entirely - more so critical at speed.


Hope this helps, Joe.. I believe most of what I sent Aaron is in the above.

frats,
Rosco