Clutch pedal
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Clutch pedal
In the FB...I barely have to bring the clutch up say 1/2 inch? from the floor and it already engaging into gear. Is this an adjustment fix or something bigger?
Stewart
Stewart
Feelin free in a '61 FB.
Member of FB-EK Holden Car Club Of NSW Inc.
Check out the Rebuild of Old Timer
Member of FB-EK Holden Car Club Of NSW Inc.
Check out the Rebuild of Old Timer
- Craig Allardyce
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Re: Clutch pedal
As the clutch wears you should loose clearance and the clutch will engage at a higher point. Yours sounds like fluid loss or air. Probably just a flush and bleed will do it Stewart. Don't forget to check the slave cylinder and master cylinder for leaks at the firewall (inside of car too). Sometimes that can go undetected.
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Re: Clutch pedal
Many thanks Craig. Will give that a try.
Feelin free in a '61 FB.
Member of FB-EK Holden Car Club Of NSW Inc.
Check out the Rebuild of Old Timer
Member of FB-EK Holden Car Club Of NSW Inc.
Check out the Rebuild of Old Timer
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Re: Clutch pedal
Hey Stu. I hate to be a Grim Reaper, but it may be cracked or broken Clutch Fork if this happened suddenly. If fork moves through full range of travel but clutch hardly disengages this could be the problem. If fork hardly moves it could be a hydraulic problem, clutch master or slave cyl. etc. These Clutch Forks can be a bit of a weak point Mate.
Tony.
Tony.
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Re: Clutch pedal
No worries Tony. The thought of a broken clutch fork has crossed my mind. Will do some more investigating...
Feelin free in a '61 FB.
Member of FB-EK Holden Car Club Of NSW Inc.
Check out the Rebuild of Old Timer
Member of FB-EK Holden Car Club Of NSW Inc.
Check out the Rebuild of Old Timer
Re: Clutch pedal
Hi Stewart - I put up with a terrible clutch pick up for many years after getting my old bus. Pickup would be about where you state yours is in the FB.
When the engine came out for the first replacement, the mechanic told me the clutch fork looked "bent". I went to the wreckers and pulled out one which the sides were not bulged and took it to him.
Comparing the two - mine was probably bent nearly 1/2" at the tip.
He put the reco engine in and called me the next day to come and pick the car up. The difference in clutch pedal pick up was amazing.. probably close to 2" from the floor before it started to grip. I did a lot of "roll backs" getting used to this new correct placement.
The giveaway, as he put it - was a slight bulge each side of the fork metal.
He told me that this often happens when bleeding the clutch is done by back-yarders - and someone of weight lifting size puts quite a bit of "gusto" into pumping the pedal up....
This can be achieved if the "pumps" are too quick - before the fluid has a chance to return up the line.
The piston pushes more and more fluid into the line each time until the fork reaches the end of travel - and presses against the housing opening.... from there, the force of the weightlifter's foot simply bends the metal....
hydraulic power, eh?....
You might like to check for signs of a bulge on each side of your fork - the sides should be smooth and curved in a straight line (sounds gobbeldy-gook) all the way around.
frats,
Rosco
When the engine came out for the first replacement, the mechanic told me the clutch fork looked "bent". I went to the wreckers and pulled out one which the sides were not bulged and took it to him.
Comparing the two - mine was probably bent nearly 1/2" at the tip.
He put the reco engine in and called me the next day to come and pick the car up. The difference in clutch pedal pick up was amazing.. probably close to 2" from the floor before it started to grip. I did a lot of "roll backs" getting used to this new correct placement.
The giveaway, as he put it - was a slight bulge each side of the fork metal.
He told me that this often happens when bleeding the clutch is done by back-yarders - and someone of weight lifting size puts quite a bit of "gusto" into pumping the pedal up....
This can be achieved if the "pumps" are too quick - before the fluid has a chance to return up the line.
The piston pushes more and more fluid into the line each time until the fork reaches the end of travel - and presses against the housing opening.... from there, the force of the weightlifter's foot simply bends the metal....
hydraulic power, eh?....
You might like to check for signs of a bulge on each side of your fork - the sides should be smooth and curved in a straight line (sounds gobbeldy-gook) all the way around.
frats,
Rosco
Last edited by rosco on Wed Apr 06, 2016 9:16 am, edited 1 time in total.
- Craig Allardyce
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Re: Clutch pedal
G'day Rosco............been wondering where you've been hiding. Bet you've got some catching up to do on the forum!
Re: Clutch pedal
Hi Craig,
yes - just working my way down the "new posts".... take me a few days.
We've been in Tassie for 6 weeks with the van... saw quite a few noice old Holdens down there... not many FB/EK's, but there are still some flying the flag for us.
As for the clutch - you are absolutely correct (not that I would ever doubt you) about clutch wear - if the plate is worn, pick up is above normal pedal height.
The same goes for the pivot ball - if it's loose - travel height will be higher.
But, if the ball is worn - it will be lower.
no-one wants to pull an engine/gearbox apart unless absolutely necessary.
I'd be looking/comparing Stewart's fork to that of one in a vehicle with a proper pedal height pickup. The angle of the fork at rest would also be a bit of a give-away...
Measure the length of unused thread remaining on the end of the pushrod..(that is, if the pushrods are of the same make etc.) - an adjustment with hardly any thread left would indicate a possibly bent fork..
frats,
Rosco
yes - just working my way down the "new posts".... take me a few days.
We've been in Tassie for 6 weeks with the van... saw quite a few noice old Holdens down there... not many FB/EK's, but there are still some flying the flag for us.
As for the clutch - you are absolutely correct (not that I would ever doubt you) about clutch wear - if the plate is worn, pick up is above normal pedal height.
The same goes for the pivot ball - if it's loose - travel height will be higher.
But, if the ball is worn - it will be lower.
no-one wants to pull an engine/gearbox apart unless absolutely necessary.
I'd be looking/comparing Stewart's fork to that of one in a vehicle with a proper pedal height pickup. The angle of the fork at rest would also be a bit of a give-away...
Measure the length of unused thread remaining on the end of the pushrod..(that is, if the pushrods are of the same make etc.) - an adjustment with hardly any thread left would indicate a possibly bent fork..
frats,
Rosco
- Craig Allardyce
- Posts: 1464
- Joined: Sun Aug 07, 2011 7:26 pm
- State: VIC
- Location: Stratford
Re: Clutch pedal
I've also had one fail where it wore the ball socket in the fork to the extent that it eventually cracked and punched through.
Good to see your back.
Good to see your back.
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- Joined: Wed May 11, 2005 2:19 pm
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Re: Clutch pedal
Many thanks guys
Feelin free in a '61 FB.
Member of FB-EK Holden Car Club Of NSW Inc.
Check out the Rebuild of Old Timer
Member of FB-EK Holden Car Club Of NSW Inc.
Check out the Rebuild of Old Timer