Starting a reco engine

Includes fuel system, cooling system and exhaust.

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Trev
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Starting a reco engine

Post by Trev »

This is where a manual fails :evil: .

I was trying to prime up the oil pump by turning over the engine (plugs out, disconnected coil etc) removed the rocker cover to see the oil come up, tried for about ten minuets when the battery gave up the fight, and still no oil up in the rocker gear :cry: .
Go to the good book (FB manual) not a jot about priming the oil pump :evil: .
Rang a mate and he said to get a length of rod and sharpen the end like the end of the dizzy, to spin the oil pump with a drill, great idea :idea: :idea: :idea: , Done and primed :D , why can't the manual help like this :?: , Trev 8) .
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rosco
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Post by rosco »

Hi Trev,

(edited) I must be tired, I read that you wanted advice.... not that you were giving it... sorry....

and - should have read your line....."FB manual"......

this is what I originally posted - I'm off to bed!


this is dear to my heart - I spent some very worried nights getting this right before turning mine over the first time..... after a strip down and re-assemble.....

I'm hoping you are refering to a red.....?

Greys I've never done - .

Reds - they won't self prime... no matter how many times you turn them over.... there may be people who will tell you that they have managed to do this - but I'd be of the opinion that there was oil in the pump - at least enough for the pump gears to draw oil up through the suction line ....

The oil pump/filter has to be filled with oil first and then fitted to the motor.

I have heard of people fitting hoses to the vacuum inlet of a second running engine in another vehicle - and connecting it to the oil feed line in the valve train - until oil is seen to enter the hose - but have not done this myself......

If you've got a grey - I'd go with the drill/shaft method - you should see oil feed the valves when it's primed.

If you've got a red - I'd remove the oil pump and filter - unscrew the oil filter and fill it then the oil pump as best you can - re-fit it, pull out the plugs (no load on mains) and spin it over for a few seconds.
If you either don't see oil on the rockers or the oil light does not go out within 20 secs or so.... I'd doubt if you've managed to prime it enough....

Sorry about the novel...

frats,
Rosco
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Trev
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Post by Trev »

Yep, it's a grey thanks anyway Rosco :D
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FB MAD
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Post by FB MAD »

:roll: Yep, it can be a common problem at times with all types of pumps and not just oil pumps either.Some blokes fill pumps up with grease when rebuilding an engine to assist initial priming and it works.

You can actually buy a "tool' for Chev V8's to run on a drill to prime the pump.Works and looks the same way as Trev's modified steel rod.

I had the same problem with a "long time since being used" fuel pump on a 305 Chev ( Billy Blackarrows 305 ) and eventually had to pressurise to fuel container with compressed air to prime the pump.

It probably wouldn't hurt to put up your fix report Trev as a "sticky" for future reference??
I can't think what to write here so this will do.
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Blacky
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Post by Blacky »

I have primed red motors using the old compressed air in the rocker cover trick - stick a dusting gun nozzle in the oil filler hole with a rag wrapped around it and turn the motor over - the air pressure forces the oil into the oil pump.
When you're faced with an unpleasant task that you really don't want to do, sometimes you just have to dig deep down inside and somehow find the patience to wait for someone else to do it for you.


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FB MAD
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Post by FB MAD »

Blacky wrote:I have primed red motors using the old compressed air in the rocker cover trick - stick a dusting gun nozzle in the oil filler hole with a rag wrapped around it and turn the motor over - the air pressure forces the oil into the oil pump.
And blows the dipstick away :wink: :wink: :wink: :lol: :lol: :lol:


...............................................

Sorry Blacky, you know I had to say it!! :wink: :wink: :wink: :lol: :lol: :lol:










.....................................
I can't think what to write here so this will do.
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Ados
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Post by Ados »

Thanks Trev, I had been worrying about this for weeks. Made up the "tool" last night, using a bench grinder to shape the end of a long coach bolt. Worked an absolute treat. There is something very satisfying about the sound of the oil squirting around in there! I would highly recommend this method, simple and effective.:D
Engine is all back in now after a full reco, fingers crossed I will be starting her up today. :D
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Trev
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Post by Trev »

Glad I could help Ados :D
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Cal
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Post by Cal »

Wouldn't just cranking the engine with no spark do the trick?

I'm presuming when an engine is rebuit that all the lubricated parts get a coat of oil prior to being installed anyway, so there's no real drama if you were to crank for a while and find you have no oil pressure.
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FB MAD
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Post by FB MAD »

Yes

But........................

A new engine is tight to turn because it's new parts haven't had time to settle in.

The starter will turn somewhat slower than starting a used engine and will flatten the battery quickly or overheat because of this higher load unless you are lucky enough to have an instant start ( sometimes it happens ).

Even then, if the pump doesn't prime and pump straight away you are running the engine on the unpressured lubrication used on assembly.This lubrication doesn't last long with no oil pressure and that spells problems if continuing running occurs with no pressure even on an unloaded engine.

In theory :? :? :? , in a good condition running engine the mains,big ends and conrod journals actually "float" in a film of pressurised oil.There isn't supposed to be any contact between the bearing surfaces as such.The only contact ( and wear ) that happens on these engine bearing surfaces is at start up until oil pressure builds up and/or in the event of pressure loss due to insufficient oil or oiling system malfunction.



Best to take the safe path and prime the pump and system before initial startup so that when it fires up, it has oil pressure up and running straight away.
I can't think what to write here so this will do.
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Trev
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Post by Trev »

Cal wrote:Wouldn't just cranking the engine with no spark do the trick?
This was my point Cal, the battery gave up the fight, so this is an other way of priming the oil pump :!: , Trev 8) .
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my70wg
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Post by my70wg »

Trev wrote:
Cal wrote:Wouldn't just cranking the engine with no spark do the trick?
This was my point Cal, the battery gave up the fight, so this is an other way of priming the oil pump :!: , Trev 8) .
just a question, but could you run jumper jeads from a running car to your battery and then do it cal's way??

then realy ypur battery shouldnt go dead...

just a thort

aidan...
i'll get there....
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Post by (AUST)Mod »

Would have to be pretty thick leads for any prolonged cranking - would require a fair bit of current I imagine.
Craig wrote: Andrew you have a red so I wouldn't race it :wink:

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Cal
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Post by Cal »

my70wg wrote:
Trev wrote:
Cal wrote:Wouldn't just cranking the engine with no spark do the trick?
This was my point Cal, the battery gave up the fight, so this is an other way of priming the oil pump :!: , Trev 8) .
just a question, but could you run jumper jeads from a running car to your battery and then do it cal's way??

then realy ypur battery shouldnt go dead...

just a thort

aidan...



It would still go dead after a while, as I'd imagine the current drawn to try and start it would be higher than the "jump" given by the other car


I think....
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Ados
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Post by Ados »

FB MAD wrote:Yes
The starter will turn somewhat slower than starting a used engine and will flatten the battery quickly or overheat because of this higher load unless you are lucky enough to have an instant start ( sometimes it happens ).
No such luck for me today :cry:

Trying to start my reco'ed engine. Any advice guys? Really slow cranking, getting between a quarter and a turn and a half of the fan per turn of the key. Brand new battery today and still no luck :cry:
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