Guys, without numerous jumping from page to page searching, i was hoping Forum members could post the pro's and cons's of fitting one or the other (as above) as a future reference for others thinking of a V8 conversion (maybe a STICKY ??). With the vast experience and knowledge of members i am hoping to get reply's such as (and including photos if possible). Obviously the first step is to contact your State RTA for guidelines but then ...
*ive put a 308 Holden + Auto/Manual into my FB/EK because....
*ive put a 327/305/etc Chev + Auto/Manual into my FB/EK because
and include such things like....
*when putting a Holden V8 + A or M you must do or consider these modifications ie, crossmember, engine mounts, clearances, tailshaft, firewall, alt brackes,radiator,exhaust,etc
*when putting a Chev V8 + A or M you must do or consider these modifications ie, crossmember, engine mounts, clearances, tailshaft, firewall, alt brackes,radiator,exhaust,etc
and maybe include.....
* i found ...?... works better than ...?... because....
* if you use ...?... it will ...?...(make it fit better,make more room, save ? etc)
hope this makes sense ? i have a ute that is set up to take a V8 yet i havent finished body mod's and already have started to collect drivetrain stuff BUT havent decided on Holden or Chev. I have been given a sad running 308+T400. Im not after HP, just a daily driver Holden V8 ute. I have reseached alot of the Pro's and Con's myself, im not asking for anyones opinions on what I should do, i am only hoping to have a "Post" or "Sticky" that anyone can view with some great experience/knowledge from the members of this forum. And maybe another Post started for the same for EFI conversions ??
V8 Holden v's V8 Chev conversion (non EFI)
V8 Holden v's V8 Chev conversion (non EFI)
If you can’t convince them, confuse them.
-
mrs ratbox
Re: V8 Holden v's V8 Chev conversion (non EFI)
we've done 2 308's into FB/EK, this has sort of been covered before our reason for 308 was at the time it seemed the easiest/cheapest route, i really disslike headers that go out the inner guard but would use them if it were an absolute have to, we didn't want to fabricate expensive headers a mate had an EH with a 308 with factory manifolds on it seeing as the 2 cars EJ/EH, FB/EK have similar engine bays so we figured we would give the 308 a go
the way we did it we had to do a very small firewall mod but we could fit HQ type radiator with an engine fan on the motor, back to exhaust chev's have a limited amount of different exhaust manifolds that can be hard to find where holdens have quite a few that are fairly easily obtainable we did end up useing extractors that were just modified commodore ones left side was nearly bolt on, but now there's been quite a few guys doing decent headers on chevs so it'll be pretty much a personal preferance thing
you will get the people with the power argument but you said yor not after that, a mate had an LH torana with 308 with very basic mods in full street trim that ran low 11 sec 1/4's so a 308 can make good power aswell if wanted
the last V8 conversion we did on the van (there's pics on here somewhere) was drive in red 6 4 speed drive out 253 (later swaped to 308) auto done in less than a week working part time on it
the way we did it we had to do a very small firewall mod but we could fit HQ type radiator with an engine fan on the motor, back to exhaust chev's have a limited amount of different exhaust manifolds that can be hard to find where holdens have quite a few that are fairly easily obtainable we did end up useing extractors that were just modified commodore ones left side was nearly bolt on, but now there's been quite a few guys doing decent headers on chevs so it'll be pretty much a personal preferance thing
you will get the people with the power argument but you said yor not after that, a mate had an LH torana with 308 with very basic mods in full street trim that ran low 11 sec 1/4's so a 308 can make good power aswell if wanted
the last V8 conversion we did on the van (there's pics on here somewhere) was drive in red 6 4 speed drive out 253 (later swaped to 308) auto done in less than a week working part time on it
Re: V8 Holden v's V8 Chev conversion (non EFI)
Lexumus,
A V8 thread (and probably a sticky) is not a bad idea.
My own build aims to do as much as I can myself, but bearing in mind that although I can cut, drill and grind, I cannot weld very well. The wagon has to comply with full NSW rego. Some of the stuff I've found as I went along:
a) I used a HR front end (because the car already had one, and because I needed disk brakes to keep the engineer happy).
b) I used a CRS chassis kit (legend has it that V6 Conversions and Rods Racks are better, but my CRS kit was easily available, cheap and easy). My welding is crap, so I needed some help welding in the chassis rail rear mounts and the front brake line brackets - a quick job but not so easy with welding skills like mine. I note that one of the FBEK forum members is selling chassis rails where the rear mounting point is a lot better than the CRS ones (looks like it might even be bolt up?).
c) I had CRS machine my front spindles to suit Commodore bearings (because I wanted to run a Commodore diff and nice shiny matching Commodore front wheels). I learnt the hard way that 15" Commodore wheels foul the tie-rod ends. You are not allowed to use spacers in NSW to fix the clearance (if you could, they would be about 8mm). Commodore wheels have lots of different offsets, but I have yet to find one that doesn't foul. I could use tierod spacers (Stinky has done this before), but am hoping that 16" wheels will solve the dilema.
d) I used an LH torana steering column (because I needed a collapsable one and LH fits OK). Had to go to a country wrecker to find an LH though as they are getting rarer. The LH/UC front mount rack was supplied by CRS.
e) I used an HZ accelerator pedal (bolts in neatly with some angleiron mounts).
f) My front brakes are VN/VP discs, driven by an XA/XB &*#@ master cylinder with Gemini booster. Bolts in, but makes the brake lines a challenge to bend near the master. Had to pull apart my EK pedal set and respace the pedals on the pivot shaft to get them to line up (easy job with some home-made spacers). I needed the master cylinder pushrod extended to marry up the booster and master - Hopper Stoppers made one up for me (my welding is crap, and there is no way I can weld brake parts).
g) Diff is from a VP Commorode (LSD) narrowed by V6 Conversions. I use the Commodore rear handbrake cable with the EK front one. I made up a "pivot bar" that links the two (out of flat bar stock... hacksaw, drill and grinder) only because my EK one was missing... I suspect the standard bar would do the job.
h) I chose a Chev (early 327) over a 308 only because I like the idea of running something a little different (but not too different... plenty of parts available because 327 are very similar to 350). Had to dent the firewall on the drivers side to get the Chev to fit. Chose a 600 vac-secondary Holley (big enough and vacuum secondaries are gentler on fuel consumption).
i) I chose CRS fenderwell headers because I cannot weld well enough to make my own. They are OK, though the drivers rear cylinder is not the best. Cutting the inner fenders by trial and error is painful - copy someones by using a newspaper template if you can. I ran 2 1/2" exhaust from the headers back. The CRS headers foul on the rubber brake lines... you need to use the standard HR clamps and springs to hold the brake lines back (thanks Theo!).
j) I chose a VL automatic radiator (because the size is right, and the inlets/outlets are in the right place), twin Davies Craig 10" thermofans (because it was hard to get a thermofan to fit without butchering the hood catch) and thermostatic switch. I had to recess the top radiator support bar to get the radiator to fit.
k) I chose a stainless fuel tank from Mick (Qld), Holley red pump and 3/8" stainless hard fuel lines. The tank replaced my very badly dented original one and is bigger than standard. The fuel pump tucks up OK under the body near the rear seats, though is noisy... only just drowned out by the 2 1/2" exhaust. The fuel lines bent OK but took some patience to learn (buy an extra length of line and practice!). I used Swagelok fittings because they are very strong and can be installed with a simple spanner - no soldering or special tools needed. Having all stainless fuel system gives me more piece of mind (have been stuck a few times in the middle of nowhere with clogged fuel filters).
l) I have a TH350 (came with the engine... and saves me fitting a clutch setup) with a Hurst shifter (cable driven - can mount it far forward to celar the bench seat). I used 3/8" stainless hard lines to the cooler in the VL radiator (same as the fuel lines).
m) I run Halogen headlights because the wagon will do a lot a country miles, and the kangaroos need something to aim for.
n) I run a Bosch 140A alternator because I hate getting stuck somewhere with a flat battery. The thermofans, headlights and other bits and pieces chew a few amps, and with a big alternator I can later play around with a big stereo, driving lights or A/C with no worries. Getting rid of the generator was not that hard, but took some "unpicking" of the wiring harness and rerouting of wires to get it to sit right. I put a new fuse box under the dash (a Narva one with lots of circuits) because I hate blowing one fuse and having 1/2 the electricals stop working - nicer with one fuse, one circuit.
o) I use a dry-cell battery in an insulated box (sheet steel cover, fibreglass pinkbats offcuts for insulation) in the original location. Just fits, though need the insulated box to stop the headers cooking the battery. No trouble with cranking so far.
p) I run 2-speed wipers, which were supplied with a washer switch from Ken Mclean on the FE/FC forum (I sent my wiper base and he modified it).
q) I joined the NSW FB/EK Club late in the project (... because I am foolish). Wish I had of joined earlier and asked more questions instead of learning the hard way.
A V8 thread (and probably a sticky) is not a bad idea.
My own build aims to do as much as I can myself, but bearing in mind that although I can cut, drill and grind, I cannot weld very well. The wagon has to comply with full NSW rego. Some of the stuff I've found as I went along:
a) I used a HR front end (because the car already had one, and because I needed disk brakes to keep the engineer happy).
b) I used a CRS chassis kit (legend has it that V6 Conversions and Rods Racks are better, but my CRS kit was easily available, cheap and easy). My welding is crap, so I needed some help welding in the chassis rail rear mounts and the front brake line brackets - a quick job but not so easy with welding skills like mine. I note that one of the FBEK forum members is selling chassis rails where the rear mounting point is a lot better than the CRS ones (looks like it might even be bolt up?).
c) I had CRS machine my front spindles to suit Commodore bearings (because I wanted to run a Commodore diff and nice shiny matching Commodore front wheels). I learnt the hard way that 15" Commodore wheels foul the tie-rod ends. You are not allowed to use spacers in NSW to fix the clearance (if you could, they would be about 8mm). Commodore wheels have lots of different offsets, but I have yet to find one that doesn't foul. I could use tierod spacers (Stinky has done this before), but am hoping that 16" wheels will solve the dilema.
d) I used an LH torana steering column (because I needed a collapsable one and LH fits OK). Had to go to a country wrecker to find an LH though as they are getting rarer. The LH/UC front mount rack was supplied by CRS.
e) I used an HZ accelerator pedal (bolts in neatly with some angleiron mounts).
f) My front brakes are VN/VP discs, driven by an XA/XB &*#@ master cylinder with Gemini booster. Bolts in, but makes the brake lines a challenge to bend near the master. Had to pull apart my EK pedal set and respace the pedals on the pivot shaft to get them to line up (easy job with some home-made spacers). I needed the master cylinder pushrod extended to marry up the booster and master - Hopper Stoppers made one up for me (my welding is crap, and there is no way I can weld brake parts).
g) Diff is from a VP Commorode (LSD) narrowed by V6 Conversions. I use the Commodore rear handbrake cable with the EK front one. I made up a "pivot bar" that links the two (out of flat bar stock... hacksaw, drill and grinder) only because my EK one was missing... I suspect the standard bar would do the job.
h) I chose a Chev (early 327) over a 308 only because I like the idea of running something a little different (but not too different... plenty of parts available because 327 are very similar to 350). Had to dent the firewall on the drivers side to get the Chev to fit. Chose a 600 vac-secondary Holley (big enough and vacuum secondaries are gentler on fuel consumption).
i) I chose CRS fenderwell headers because I cannot weld well enough to make my own. They are OK, though the drivers rear cylinder is not the best. Cutting the inner fenders by trial and error is painful - copy someones by using a newspaper template if you can. I ran 2 1/2" exhaust from the headers back. The CRS headers foul on the rubber brake lines... you need to use the standard HR clamps and springs to hold the brake lines back (thanks Theo!).
j) I chose a VL automatic radiator (because the size is right, and the inlets/outlets are in the right place), twin Davies Craig 10" thermofans (because it was hard to get a thermofan to fit without butchering the hood catch) and thermostatic switch. I had to recess the top radiator support bar to get the radiator to fit.
k) I chose a stainless fuel tank from Mick (Qld), Holley red pump and 3/8" stainless hard fuel lines. The tank replaced my very badly dented original one and is bigger than standard. The fuel pump tucks up OK under the body near the rear seats, though is noisy... only just drowned out by the 2 1/2" exhaust. The fuel lines bent OK but took some patience to learn (buy an extra length of line and practice!). I used Swagelok fittings because they are very strong and can be installed with a simple spanner - no soldering or special tools needed. Having all stainless fuel system gives me more piece of mind (have been stuck a few times in the middle of nowhere with clogged fuel filters).
l) I have a TH350 (came with the engine... and saves me fitting a clutch setup) with a Hurst shifter (cable driven - can mount it far forward to celar the bench seat). I used 3/8" stainless hard lines to the cooler in the VL radiator (same as the fuel lines).
m) I run Halogen headlights because the wagon will do a lot a country miles, and the kangaroos need something to aim for.
n) I run a Bosch 140A alternator because I hate getting stuck somewhere with a flat battery. The thermofans, headlights and other bits and pieces chew a few amps, and with a big alternator I can later play around with a big stereo, driving lights or A/C with no worries. Getting rid of the generator was not that hard, but took some "unpicking" of the wiring harness and rerouting of wires to get it to sit right. I put a new fuse box under the dash (a Narva one with lots of circuits) because I hate blowing one fuse and having 1/2 the electricals stop working - nicer with one fuse, one circuit.
o) I use a dry-cell battery in an insulated box (sheet steel cover, fibreglass pinkbats offcuts for insulation) in the original location. Just fits, though need the insulated box to stop the headers cooking the battery. No trouble with cranking so far.
p) I run 2-speed wipers, which were supplied with a washer switch from Ken Mclean on the FE/FC forum (I sent my wiper base and he modified it).
q) I joined the NSW FB/EK Club late in the project (... because I am foolish). Wish I had of joined earlier and asked more questions instead of learning the hard way.
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
-
BILLY BLACKARROW
- Posts: 1065
- Joined: Thu Aug 21, 2008 9:22 pm
- State: NSW
- Location: NEWCASTLE MACQUARIE HILLS
Re: V8 Holden v's V8 Chev conversion (non EFI)
Harv
How's your welding
Not a bad report .Found out the hard way as well .That the beauty of this forum you ask and someone. Like yourself will help !! you don't ask and you may never know
BILLY
How's your welding
Not a bad report .Found out the hard way as well .That the beauty of this forum you ask and someone. Like yourself will help !! you don't ask and you may never know
BILLY
Last edited by BILLY BLACKARROW on Tue Jun 01, 2010 5:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.
BILLY BLACKARROW
MY Father always said do the hard part first --because when you are OVER IT you only have the easy part left to do THINGS I HAVE TRIED TO LIVE BY
MY Father always said do the hard part first --because when you are OVER IT you only have the easy part left to do THINGS I HAVE TRIED TO LIVE BY
Re: V8 Holden v's V8 Chev conversion (non EFI)
Got any pictures of this beast?Harv wrote:Lexumus,
A V8 thread (and probably a sticky) is not a bad idea.
My own build aims to do as much as I can myself, but bearing in mind that although I can cut, drill and grind, I cannot weld very well. The wagon has to comply with full NSW rego. Some of the stuff I've found as I went along:
a) I used a HR front end (because the car already had one, and because I needed disk brakes to keep the engineer happy).
b) I used a CRS chassis kit (legend has it that V6 Conversions and Rods Racks are better, but my CRS kit was easily available, cheap and easy). My welding is crap, so I needed some help welding in the chassis rail rear mounts and the front brake line brackets - a quick job but not so easy with welding skills like mine. I note that one of the FBEK forum members is selling chassis rails where the rear mounting point is a lot better than the CRS ones (looks like it might even be bolt up?).
c) I had CRS machine my front spindles to suit Commodore bearings (because I wanted to run a Commodore diff and nice shiny matching Commodore front wheels). I learnt the hard way that 15" Commodore wheels foul the tie-rod ends. You are not allowed to use spacers in NSW to fix the clearance (if you could, they would be about 8mm). Commodore wheels have lots of different offsets, but I have yet to find one that doesn't foul. I could use tierod spacers (Stinky has done this before), but am hoping that 16" wheels will solve the dilema.
d) I used an LH torana steering column (because I needed a collapsable one and LH fits OK). Had to go to a country wrecker to find an LH though as they are getting rarer. The LH/UC front mount rack was supplied by CRS.
e) I used an HZ accelerator pedal (bolts in neatly with some angleiron mounts).
f) My front brakes are VN/VP discs, driven by an XA/XB &*#@ master cylinder with Gemini booster. Bolts in, but makes the brake lines a challenge to bend near the master. Had to pull apart my EK pedal set and respace the pedals on the pivot shaft to get them to line up (easy job with some home-made spacers). I needed the master cylinder pushrod extended to marry up the booster and master - Hopper Stoppers made one up for me (my welding is crap, and there is no way I can weld brake parts).
g) Diff is from a VP Commorode (LSD) narrowed by V6 Conversions. I use the Commodore rear handbrake cable with the EK front one. I made up a "pivot bar" that links the two (out of flat bar stock... hacksaw, drill and grinder) only because my EK one was missing... I suspect the standard bar would do the job.
h) I chose a Chev (early 327) over a 308 only because I like the idea of running something a little different (but not too different... plenty of parts available because 327 are very similar to 350). Had to dent the firewall on the drivers side to get the Chev to fit. Chose a 600 vac-secondary Holley (big enough and vacuum secondaries are gentler on fuel consumption).
i) I chose CRS fenderwell headers because I cannot weld well enough to make my own. They are OK, though the drivers rear cylinder is not the best. Cutting the inner fenders by trial and error is painful - copy someones by using a newspaper template if you can. I ran 2 1/2" exhaust from the headers back. The CRS headers foul on the rubber brake lines... you need to use the standard HR clamps and springs to hold the brake lines back (thanks Theo!).
j) I chose a VL automatic radiator (because the size is right, and the inlets/outlets are in the right place), twin Davies Craig 10" thermofans (because it was hard to get a thermofan to fit without butchering the hood catch) and thermostatic switch. I had to recess the top radiator support bar to get the radiator to fit.
k) I chose a stainless fuel tank from Mick (Qld), Holley red pump and 3/8" stainless hard fuel lines. The tank replaced my very badly dented original one and is bigger than standard. The fuel pump tucks up OK under the body near the rear seats, though is noisy... only just drowned out by the 2 1/2" exhaust. The fuel lines bent OK but took some patience to learn (buy an extra length of line and practice!). I used Swagelok fittings because they are very strong and can be installed with a simple spanner - no soldering or special tools needed. Having all stainless fuel system gives me more piece of mind (have been stuck a few times in the middle of nowhere with clogged fuel filters).
l) I have a TH350 (came with the engine... and saves me fitting a clutch setup) with a Hurst shifter (cable driven - can mount it far forward to celar the bench seat). I used 3/8" stainless hard lines to the cooler in the VL radiator (same as the fuel lines).
m) I run Halogen headlights because the wagon will do a lot a country miles, and the kangaroos need something to aim for.
n) I run a Bosch 140A alternator because I hate getting stuck somewhere with a flat battery. The thermofans, headlights and other bits and pieces chew a few amps, and with a big alternator I can later play around with a big stereo, driving lights or A/C with no worries. Getting rid of the generator was not that hard, but took some "unpicking" of the wiring harness and rerouting of wires to get it to sit right. I put a new fuse box under the dash (a Narva one with lots of circuits) because I hate blowing one fuse and having 1/2 the electricals stop working - nicer with one fuse, one circuit.
o) I use a dry-cell battery in an insulated box (sheet steel cover, fibreglass pinkbats offcuts for insulation) in the original location. Just fits, though need the insulated box to stop the headers cooking the battery. No trouble with cranking so far.
p) I run 2-speed wipers, which were supplied with a washer switch from Ken Mclean on the FE/FC forum (I sent my wiper base and he modified it).
q) I joined the NSW FB/EK Club late in the project (... because I am foolish). Wish I had of joined earlier and asked more questions instead of learning the hard way.
Craig wrote: Andrew you have a red so I wouldn't race it
Re: V8 Holden v's V8 Chev conversion (non EFI)
No photos unfortunately. I started the project, then got transferred overseas for a few years. The wagon went into storage (gave me something to dream about for a few years). Now that we are back home, it's time to collect it and restart work. Bought an FB sedan to drive around in the meantime, have to stop myself tinkering with it and focus on the wagon! Will try to take some happy snaps and post once I pick it up.
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
Re: V8 Holden v's V8 Chev conversion (non EFI)
Excellent, looking forward to it!
Craig wrote: Andrew you have a red so I wouldn't race it
Re: V8 Holden v's V8 Chev conversion (non EFI)
Did someone from this thread PM me asking to pin up pics of a conversion or something? I deleted my messages by accident after only briefly reading the message at work.
http://www.facebook.com/60minus
Re: V8 Holden v's V8 Chev conversion (non EFI)
Pros and cons.. Holden V8's sound way better!
But seriously.. some people say use chevs because they have a narrower girth than a holden V8 which is true but holdens are alot narrower at the heads so your gaining in one area but losing in another...
With our 308 conversion... some of the clearance problems we had,
The oil filter sits pretty close to the subframe. But you can get away with trimming off some of the lip (not all or you will weaken the join) or its possible grind it all back and seam weld the joint.
We've had to recess the firewall a fair bit (over 3 inches i think). Due to a custom front end and rear mounted rack we had to move the motor back that much to give enough sump - rack clearance. Also used an LC-LJ 308 (hi energy) sump (sits about 15-20mm further back than HQ i think).
Couldnt use a taller after market dizzy because it fouled on the wiper motor, if you really want to run a taller dizzy, this could possibly be fixed by the gemini under dash wiper motor setup?
Shouldnt ever have bonnet clearance issues.
Thats all i can think of at the moment. I'm sure i'll think of more.. there isnt a great deal of V8 conversion info on here, hope this can help someone.
But seriously.. some people say use chevs because they have a narrower girth than a holden V8 which is true but holdens are alot narrower at the heads so your gaining in one area but losing in another...
With our 308 conversion... some of the clearance problems we had,
The oil filter sits pretty close to the subframe. But you can get away with trimming off some of the lip (not all or you will weaken the join) or its possible grind it all back and seam weld the joint.
We've had to recess the firewall a fair bit (over 3 inches i think). Due to a custom front end and rear mounted rack we had to move the motor back that much to give enough sump - rack clearance. Also used an LC-LJ 308 (hi energy) sump (sits about 15-20mm further back than HQ i think).
Couldnt use a taller after market dizzy because it fouled on the wiper motor, if you really want to run a taller dizzy, this could possibly be fixed by the gemini under dash wiper motor setup?
Shouldnt ever have bonnet clearance issues.
Thats all i can think of at the moment. I'm sure i'll think of more.. there isnt a great deal of V8 conversion info on here, hope this can help someone.
Last edited by Brodie on Sat Jun 05, 2010 4:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
[img]http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww162/brodie_mitchell/av-49951.gif[/img]
Re: V8 Holden v's V8 Chev conversion (non EFI)
a Z160 filter should solve those problems brodie
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Re: V8 Holden v's V8 Chev conversion (non EFI)
Thanks Kiid but we already have the smaller filter.. will try and find some pics.
I dont think its usually a problem but it is for our conversion so i put it up. Might not help anyone but on the chance it could i thought id put it up.
I think its because our engine sits about 30-40mm higher than it would if we were using a HR front end.
I dont think its usually a problem but it is for our conversion so i put it up. Might not help anyone but on the chance it could i thought id put it up.
I think its because our engine sits about 30-40mm higher than it would if we were using a HR front end.
[img]http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww162/brodie_mitchell/av-49951.gif[/img]
Re: V8 Holden v's V8 Chev conversion (non EFI)
The Holden V8,s fit pretty good onto the Torana front ends, sit a bit further forward , so no mods to firewall were needed,standard Torana or HQ sumps fit easy and it sits nice and low , so no problems with distibuters .
Still have the same problem with the oil filter , sits pretty close ,but did fit without having to trim the rail.
There is not a lot of room at the front , fitting of fans is tight and it is going to be a bit messy on the driver side , with clearance for steering and engine mount and exhaust , but have not tackled this yet ,so could be OK.
Still have the same problem with the oil filter , sits pretty close ,but did fit without having to trim the rail.
There is not a lot of room at the front , fitting of fans is tight and it is going to be a bit messy on the driver side , with clearance for steering and engine mount and exhaust , but have not tackled this yet ,so could be OK.
Re: V8 Holden v's V8 Chev conversion (non EFI)
I think the minimum engine and accessory clearance is max engine movement plus 10 or 15mm..
We have moved the engine position slightly after these pics were taken.. So its now compliant, just...
Some pics to give an idea..
Its still real close but the filter has a bit more room than what it looks like in the pics*
Standard dizzy has enough room but anything with a longer shaft will give problems (think of it with the cap and leads on).
Sump clearances, LC-LJ sump... HQ sump in same position fouled big time on the rack.
We have moved the engine position slightly after these pics were taken.. So its now compliant, just...
Some pics to give an idea..
Its still real close but the filter has a bit more room than what it looks like in the pics*
Standard dizzy has enough room but anything with a longer shaft will give problems (think of it with the cap and leads on).
Sump clearances, LC-LJ sump... HQ sump in same position fouled big time on the rack.
[img]http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww162/brodie_mitchell/av-49951.gif[/img]
Re: V8 Holden v's V8 Chev conversion (non EFI)
Cant really say much on the torrana front end but its seems most who use them have clearance problems. I've used a HR in mine with a front mounted LJ rack and Ive not modified the fire wall, I have enough room for gilmer drive at the front and I'm running a 3core radiator with 2x12" thermos at the front .. If you check out the myfbek 22inch ek thread you can see where the mounts are located on my front + the height for the locator pins...
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Re: V8 Holden v's V8 Chev conversion (non EFI)
Did you make the front end yourself Brodie? looks pretty trick.
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