Sorry about the rotation - it's upright on my computer..
Here are more pics.
This is with the lowered springs in - thank god my trailer wheels fit and happen to be the size I want to go to 195/65 R15 on 6 inch rims. It's 245mm from centre hub to top of guard (60mm lower than previous spring)
Kings lowered springs 245mm.JPG (565.55 KiB) Viewed 865 times
According to King Spring techs, standard springs will be 30 - 40mm higher, about here.
Kings standard height approx 275mm.JPG (514.39 KiB) Viewed 865 times
This is the level that I took the photo of the caliper at, it just hits it. The previous spring was about 25mm higher (raised King springs ??).
When you're faced with an unpleasant task that you really don't want to do, sometimes you just have to dig deep down inside and somehow find the patience to wait for someone else to do it for you.
Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
Blacky wrote: ↑Wed Feb 21, 2018 12:36 pm
All your pics are showing as correct to me ???
Oh OK, that's weird then.. They are all over the shop on my posted screen... Cheers, oh AND also.. You said you previously ground some of your control arm off on a build. My only concern is creating a weak spot, do you think this is a real concern??
Have a look at this photo its off a HK, you can see the wishbone difference.
If you were going to grind the wishbone out I would suggest bracing it for peace of mind.
Regards Greg
Cheers Greg,
I don't think grinding out part of the wishbone is an ideal solution. I think I will just return to the billet wheels and previous springs and live with it if I can't find another solution. The low profile wheels don't make it fun to drive everyday.
FireKraka wrote: ↑Thu Feb 22, 2018 10:11 am
Hey eKay it looks cool though mate.
What are the rims and tyres you are running front and back if you don't mind telling
Regards
Neil
Rims are billet specialties: Fronts are 17 x 8 on 205/45, Rears are 18 x 8 on 235/40.
They are nice wheels, but I live well out of town and mostly do 100kph speeds on shyte roads and the ride is rough and loose stuff is destroying them, the rims dent & scratch quite easily. Clearly more for show than go. That's why I was hoping to change wheel sizes/springs etc. Annoying, coz I just got it back on the road, thought swapping springs and shocks would be a quick one day job. Only to find new problems as per this thread, wrecked a ball joint, it goes on. I just want to drive it before i get TOO old!
Errol62 wrote: ↑Thu Feb 22, 2018 12:53 pm
Mate 8” rims on the front, not surprising they rub. Probably be great on the track.
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Sorry my bad, typing faster than my brain - fronts are 17 x 7, rear 18 x 8 and the fronts weren't rubbing.. That's not the issue.
I think I have solved the problem, need to wait until the new springs get here and see how they fit in and settle in relation to the angle of the control arm. Actual settled coil height on the Kings standards will be the key. I was jacking the vehicle up 30mm (as per previous photos), from centre of cross member and not considering the fact the control arms moving in relation to the caliper, so wasn't getting a correct measurement - I know what I mean, hard to explain.
Fingers crossed I am correct in my thinking. Cheers
On HR front end. Has anyone ever heard of a trick of bolting the upper ball joints on from under the upper control arm (wishbone) instead of dropping in from the top?
Or heard of extended ball joints?
There's some very vague info around on other forums of doing this, apparently HQ race cars might have done it, but no one elaborates.
A very old thread on the Torana forum mentions it and even suggested the certifier was Ok with it, however the ówner then decided on extended ball joints with spacers and the topic drifted off. Not much info on extended ball joints and I couldn't quite picture how extended ones would work, but bolting on underneath, seems feasible.
I just want to drive it before i get TOO old!
let us know how you get on mate.