I'm about to fit some new rubbers (rare spares) How or what do i use to fill the void at the top 90 degree corner?
Any ideas
Nick
Door Rubbers
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thecollector
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Sun Sep 04, 2005 4:14 pm
- State: NOT ENTERED
- Location: Eastern Suburbs,VIC.
Is there an easy out?
Hi,
I know this is an old post but I'm hopin somebody out there is still reading it.
I ended up getting my front door seals from rare spares. It says in the instructions that the door must be removed for the rubbers to be instaled corectly.
Call me chicken but I really want to avoid doing that 
I have tried to put the rubbers in without removing the door but it seems like the only way? Plus the moulded corners, do the actually go in both corners, or just the one near the centre piller?
Any help would be an awesome help
Thanks in Advance
stew
I know this is an old post but I'm hopin somebody out there is still reading it.
I ended up getting my front door seals from rare spares. It says in the instructions that the door must be removed for the rubbers to be instaled corectly.
Call me chicken but I really want to avoid doing that
Well I got my rubber magic but my kits never had any triangular pieces of foam rubber...pb wrote:rare spare kit should have triangular pieces of foam rubber, also get can of rubber magic it help rubber slide into place when you close door
I have tried to put the rubbers in without removing the door but it seems like the only way? Plus the moulded corners, do the actually go in both corners, or just the one near the centre piller?
Any help would be an awesome help
Thanks in Advance
stew
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petrolhead
- Posts: 327
- Joined: Fri Aug 05, 2005 11:08 pm
- State: NOT ENTERED
- Location: Waikiki W.A.
Door rubbers what a pain in the ass! The front doors have to come off,bummer. I didn't use the expensive Rare Spares door seals,baily channel,anti-rattle strips or boot seals. I found a much cheaper option. I took my samples to a company called Universal Engineers(formally Adlam Enterprises) matched up some seals that were very close to origional and paid 1/2 the price.Sometimes it's worth the run around.
Regards
Petrolhead
Regards
Petrolhead
door rubbers
Hi Stew,
I fitted Rares rubbers to my l/hs doors whilst I had them off doing the refurb job to the inners and apertures (r/hs yet to be done) and found the fitting fairly straight forward - however..........(I think it goes without saying that the lower section has cut-outs front and rear for the door drain ports to vent water outside the vehicle).
Positioning those roughly and working back before any cemeting in place, I left a small over-lap for final cutting at the right angled corner when the return run came back to the start.
If you get that small bottle of the loctite they suggest and clean up the channel where the rubber fits into along with cleaning the rubber itself, I found it worked fine just following their instructions.
I started from the top cementing every two inches or so and worked my way along the channel applying firm pressure to make the bond.
I did not stretch nor bunch the rubber as I moved along but allowed it to "find" its own tension naturally and not cutting the last piece until it overlapped the starting point.
Cutting through both at 45 degrees whilst they over-lapped (and a smidge more for error) seemed to finish the task without a noticeable gap.
I was of the opinion then that the rubbers would settle in but .......
it is nearly four years since I did the job and the blasted things still need a good biff to fully close occasionally.
It seems that if a door is left open for some time, they seem to swell out again.
I know some people in our club had Rares fit them and they don't seem to have the issues the rest of us do.
As to the triangular front corner piece - my kit did not have an insert to fit.
I will however "cadge" one from an old door rubber one day and cement it it to fill the void.
Let me know if you have a go at the quarter vent pillar seal - I wrote an article a few years back after getting the "goss" from rares.
hope this gives you some direction?
frats,
Rosco
I fitted Rares rubbers to my l/hs doors whilst I had them off doing the refurb job to the inners and apertures (r/hs yet to be done) and found the fitting fairly straight forward - however..........(I think it goes without saying that the lower section has cut-outs front and rear for the door drain ports to vent water outside the vehicle).
Positioning those roughly and working back before any cemeting in place, I left a small over-lap for final cutting at the right angled corner when the return run came back to the start.
If you get that small bottle of the loctite they suggest and clean up the channel where the rubber fits into along with cleaning the rubber itself, I found it worked fine just following their instructions.
I started from the top cementing every two inches or so and worked my way along the channel applying firm pressure to make the bond.
I did not stretch nor bunch the rubber as I moved along but allowed it to "find" its own tension naturally and not cutting the last piece until it overlapped the starting point.
Cutting through both at 45 degrees whilst they over-lapped (and a smidge more for error) seemed to finish the task without a noticeable gap.
I was of the opinion then that the rubbers would settle in but .......
it is nearly four years since I did the job and the blasted things still need a good biff to fully close occasionally.
It seems that if a door is left open for some time, they seem to swell out again.
I know some people in our club had Rares fit them and they don't seem to have the issues the rest of us do.
As to the triangular front corner piece - my kit did not have an insert to fit.
I will however "cadge" one from an old door rubber one day and cement it it to fill the void.
Let me know if you have a go at the quarter vent pillar seal - I wrote an article a few years back after getting the "goss" from rares.
hope this gives you some direction?
frats,
Rosco
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earlyholdenfan
- Posts: 122
- Joined: Sun May 23, 2004 3:08 pm
- State: NOT ENTERED
- Location: Melbourne
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thecollector
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Sun Sep 04, 2005 4:14 pm
- State: NOT ENTERED
- Location: Eastern Suburbs,VIC.
rubbers
Thanks Rosco!!!
Well your post will be a big help on the EK doors. It's in the shop today n tomorrow just hoping it's being looked after I might find out how much rare spares charges becuase I never even knew they did that sort of thing...well
And if you could please post up the intructions for the front vent window that would be awesome for us all. I painfully replaced the passenger-side one myself (and with the help of the fb-ekholden.com got it fixed) but after it was all back together again it doesn't look right!! An still with the driver-side to go & the passenger-side one to adjust or repair some cool instructions would go down a treat LOL
There must be an easier and more effective way than the way I did it...
CHEERS
stew
Well your post will be a big help on the EK doors. It's in the shop today n tomorrow just hoping it's being looked after
I might find out how much rare spares charges becuase I never even knew they did that sort of thing...well And if you could please post up the intructions for the front vent window that would be awesome for us all. I painfully replaced the passenger-side one myself (and with the help of the fb-ekholden.com got it fixed) but after it was all back together again it doesn't look right!! An still with the driver-side to go & the passenger-side one to adjust or repair some cool instructions would go down a treat LOL
There must be an easier and more effective way than the way I did it...
CHEERS
stew
quarter vent seals
Hi Stew and Matt,
the article I wrote a few years ago should still be current for fitting the 1/4 vent division bar seal.
It is in word format and I don't know if I can cut and paste here.
I will speak to the editor and see if he thinks it is worth a run in the October newsletter for all members to read.
I was at an extreme loss as to how that little moulded strip of neoprene rubber was orientated on the bar............. following Rare's instructions - I know it works a treat and doesn't whistle nor leak. the 1/4 vent closes without threatening the white metal handle and looks very neat in its concealment behind the glass. It most certainly will only fit one way and must be done systematically or it will bug you until you replace it correctly - just ask me how a ham-fisted stick on would have been better left undone!
The people out at Rare's really know their stuff when it comes to doing this.
I was very fortunate to have been given direct access to the fellow who fits their merchandise - and with his patience was able to write it all down.
Let me know if you think it worthwhile to run in "Twin Fin" in October?
frats,
Rosco
the article I wrote a few years ago should still be current for fitting the 1/4 vent division bar seal.
It is in word format and I don't know if I can cut and paste here.
I will speak to the editor and see if he thinks it is worth a run in the October newsletter for all members to read.
I was at an extreme loss as to how that little moulded strip of neoprene rubber was orientated on the bar............. following Rare's instructions - I know it works a treat and doesn't whistle nor leak. the 1/4 vent closes without threatening the white metal handle and looks very neat in its concealment behind the glass. It most certainly will only fit one way and must be done systematically or it will bug you until you replace it correctly - just ask me how a ham-fisted stick on would have been better left undone!
The people out at Rare's really know their stuff when it comes to doing this.
I was very fortunate to have been given direct access to the fellow who fits their merchandise - and with his patience was able to write it all down.
Let me know if you think it worthwhile to run in "Twin Fin" in October?
frats,
Rosco
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thecollector
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Sun Sep 04, 2005 4:14 pm
- State: NOT ENTERED
- Location: Eastern Suburbs,VIC.
Hey Rosco,
I reckon itsa brilliant idea. As all EK-FB owners doing resto's or just maintaining their showroom special will find it as a must have bit of info/fact.
I know my 1st attempt is wrong. it looks wrong, it closes wrong and it must be redone but only the right way and I don't know what that is?
I'm new to this site and I've never seen an issue of twin fins before so if your post gets posted let us know or please cut paste and e-mail it to me.
I need some good reading after my $1200 EK bill this week
But at least now I know my speedo, handbrake, rear brakes and distributor are all done....
....will this RWC never end...but at least I got me EK
I reckon itsa brilliant idea. As all EK-FB owners doing resto's or just maintaining their showroom special will find it as a must have bit of info/fact.
I know my 1st attempt is wrong. it looks wrong, it closes wrong and it must be redone but only the right way
and I don't know what that is?I'm new to this site and I've never seen an issue of twin fins before so if your post gets posted let us know or please cut paste and e-mail it to me.
I need some good reading after my $1200 EK bill this week
But at least now I know my speedo, handbrake, rear brakes and distributor are all done....
....will this RWC never end...but at least I got me EK
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