Hi All,
Well I'm stuck! In a rusty kind of way aswell to make things more difficult.
The rubber seals had to be replaced as I bought the car with one of its 1/4 windows stuck shut with an old crusty rubber an alot of silastic. BEFORE looks fine from outside but inside it's seen a few better days AFTERmath
(What you cant see is the scratch I put in the top of the door frame )
I have the door apart an the rusty bolt that held the rusty spring i have off. The bolt underneth the 1/4 window is flat on both sides. Must this rusted in bolt be removed ? An if so what's the best plan of attack.
Any help would be great as my dad could only remember how to remove the split pin in the window latch from his ol'ek
What you need to do is
1 Lower the door glass & remove interior handles & trim
2 With one hand supporting the glassremove the 3 screws attaching the window regulatorto the door inner panel, slide the regulator arm off the the glass lifterchannel & lower the glass to bottom of the door
3 With a thin bladed screwdriver prise ooff the 2 door belt weather strips
4 Remove 3 screws attaching the ventilater assenbly to the dooor upper frame
5 Remove the nut attaching the lower end of the division channel to the door inner panel & remove division channel adjusting stud (adj screw very end of division channel)
6 Ease the ventilator assembly inward & to the rear & lift from the door.
In short remove the door glass & slide the ventilater down & out where the window slid out from
Word of warning the flat sided 'post'' where the friction washer/spring are attached is VERY fragile so treat with care
Thanks Heaps for that,
So this is where I'm up to;
Nickers wrote:What you need to do is
1,2,3,4,...5 Remove the nut attaching the lower end of the division channel to the door inner panel & remove division channel adjusting stud (adj screw very end of division channel)
RUSTED SOLID It's not an orginal screw in the division channel ....An this last bit makes me think once it's out I might be no closer to replacing the 1/4 window rubbers...
Word of warning the flat sided 'post'' where the friction washer/spring are attached is VERY fragile so treat with care
coz if this post has to be removed to remove the 1/4 window making it possible to put the new rubbers in it may break that post or the window.
Or would it be easier to try an dig up a complete unrusty one since the chrome 1/4 window frame has to be replaced aswell?
There is another option , why not take the quarter window out altogether ? One of my EK`s had one piece glass in the front doors , it is very easy to do , just get the glass cut at any glazier and make up a piece from an old quarter vent frame to screw into the door and Bobs yer uncle!
The only other drama is you need to cut n shut the winder regulator because of the extra weight of the glass at the front - an afternoon in the shed and the job is done. If you have ever had to fit new rubbers into quarter windows you would give this option SERIOUS thought!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left.
Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
Well Bob is my uncles name an thats a really brainy idea. My thing is wires and I have already bought all the rubbers for the windows... No matter how much I learn when it comes to nuts n bolts the more care i take on making it right, the bigger the mess. But I love my little 1/4 windows so would a good panel beater be a better option?
But if you say give it SERIOUS thought... I think i'm in SERIOUS #$&@!
Stew can't quite make out from the photo but that 'bolt/post' should be still attached to the chrome surround the glass fits into, when & if you (can) remove the nut/washer then the chrome frame should lift out, the post will fit throught the rubber gasket then replace the nut, washer etc etc
Nickers wrote: ...that 'bolt/post' should be still attached to the chrome surround the glass fits into, when & if you (can) remove the nut/washer then the chrome frame should lift out, the post will fit throught the rubber gasket then replace the nut, washer etc etc
Very Happy to say "Stage 1" is complete thanks to your help. It's not the best of photos but blackys EK must of looked pretty meen with a 1 piece front window. An here is my 1/4 window all out with all the advice over the last few days...(the bolt that held the division channel to the door snapt under very low force) ...but at least it wasn't the post that is connected to the base of the 1/4 window.
Can't Thank you all enough you saved and tort me a bunch, now I'll hang out till I get my new/old 1/4 window chrome untill I put the new rubbers in and put it all back together again.
Thanks again stew
gee ur having more luck that me the nut is rusted tight in mine soaked em wd40 with no luck snapped one off at the weld on window .. the next one it snapped the shaft off where the nut was rusted on .. hmmm 2 down one spare left and im not game to touch it incase i break it off as well ..
starting to look like one peice windows may be the answer but i wanted to keep the retro look vents ..
The only possible way to remove frozen nuts when all else fails is to apply heat to the nut.
That is if the area to be heated is able to survive being heated.
In your case you should be right applying heat, to the nut only, and apply the heat so the flame is facing away from the quarter window frame ( thus preserving the brightwork finish on the frame ) and the nut will have to become red hot ( not to the point of melting though) and have your spanner/socket ready and undo the nut whilst it is still red hot.
Expansion of the red hot nut metal as opposed to the cooler metal of the stud allows the thread to break apart from each other and the softening of the nut metal also plays its part.
99.9% of the time the nut will undo without snapping the stud using this method.The spring may loose some of its spring tension depending on whether it gets too hot or not but it shouldn't be much of a problem.
You could trying splitting or "cracking" the nut but it can also damage the part you don't want to damage ie:- the stud thread.
Before applying the heat you could also try hitting ( probably "firm tapping" would be a better word ) each face of the nut hex ( the six sides of the nut) with a small hammer on an anvil or similar sturdy metal object.This helps to break the rusted bond between the thread on the nut and the thread on the stud.The application of WD40 during this process also helps.
Another method is applying heat to point of red hot ( again, not melting ) and then very quicky quenching the nut/stud in old sump oil.Apart from a lot of smoke as a result of quenching, the heating and quick cooling can also help to break the frozen nut/stud thread.
Best form of heat application is oxy/acetylene.
LPG will heat but usually not to the degree that is needed to get it hot enough to undo.
ah thanks FB not sure why i didnt think of hitting with the oxy .. dont it lot of times before .. hmm brain fade ..
thanks Again .. just as well i have a few spares .. lol
Hey Stew,
I replaced my vent rubbers while vent was still in the door!! All I did was split the rubber where the pins are for the quarter window and pressed the rubber into the groove in the chrome surround with heaps of rubber magic spray and when it was all in, I just put a drop of supaglue on the two splits..
And BOB'S your uncle!!
Cheers Theo Z.................
Watch for the early bird, He might be just getting home.
or there is a stuff i think called i think penatrene it's a green gel/liquid stuff, i've never used or seen it but a mates old man is a restorer of vintage cars (real early stuff) and he recons it'll undo anything
Penetrine is a very old WD40 type pentrating lubricant that one of my tech teachers used to rave about. I used it a couple of times yonks ago and yes, it is another very good product.
hi, i'm having the same problem of getting the nut on the bottom of the ventilator window off without snapping it.
after closer inspection i've found that the nut is kind of flattened/ pinched into the flat sides of the shaft. how can i get the nut off then? i'll get a pic to show if you don't know what i'm talking about.
L&K
looks fine from outside
but inside it's seen a few better days 
It's not an orginal screw in the division channel ....An this last bit makes me think once it's out I might be no closer to replacing the 1/4 window rubbers...
Thank You so much nickers & blacky !!!! 
It's not the best of photos but blackys EK must of looked pretty meen with a 1 piece front window.
tend to do it a bit at times 