Harv's FED thread

Got something else that you want to show off that's not an FB or EK? Try this section.

Moderators: reidy, Blacky

User avatar
Harv
Posts: 4998
Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 2:00 pm
State: NSW
Location: Sydney, Australia

Re: Harv's FED thread

Post by Harv »

Transmission in, diff in and measured up for the tail shaft. It’s only 8” long, not so easy for Hardy/Spicer to make up. The shorty box also has a different output shaft. No bronze bush, and no needle rollers like most shorties - it has a caged bearing. Will need to borrow two yokes from Hardies and see which one fits (the needle roller one is smaller than normal Powerglide and case hardened to run on the rollers). More fit and fiddle.

Fit the cable between the shifter and box, and can see it is way too long. Needs 420mm taken out of it. Off to FlexibleDrive it goes.

Measured up to buy the high tensile chassis bolts, as the ones in it are for construction only.

Measured up and took photos for the bits that need chroming, will get that organised shortly.

Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
User avatar
Errol62
Posts: 9628
Joined: Sat Dec 06, 2014 2:44 pm
State: SA
Location: Adelaide

Re: Harv's FED thread

Post by Errol62 »

I’m china understand that starter setup…


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
User avatar
Harv
Posts: 4998
Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 2:00 pm
State: NSW
Location: Sydney, Australia

Re: Harv's FED thread

Post by Harv »

The engine bolts to one side of the big ally plate, and the gearbox on the other side. The starter-er can’t mount direct to the gearbox, but instead mounts to the ally plate from the engine side.

Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
User avatar
Errol62
Posts: 9628
Joined: Sat Dec 06, 2014 2:44 pm
State: SA
Location: Adelaide

Re: Harv's FED thread

Post by Errol62 »

Thanks Harv I'm with you now.

Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
Blacky
Posts: 12100
Joined: Tue Jul 20, 2004 8:58 am
State: WA
Location: up in the Perth hills

Re: Harv's FED thread

Post by Blacky »

poop , I can't see your photos - will have to wait until I am back in the world ......
When you're faced with an unpleasant task that you really don't want to do, sometimes you just have to dig deep down inside and somehow find the patience to wait for someone else to do it for you.


Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
User avatar
Harv
Posts: 4998
Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 2:00 pm
State: NSW
Location: Sydney, Australia

Re: Harv's FED thread

Post by Harv »

Got some fiddly stuff done.

Got the drain and filler plugs sorted for the diff. The old Toyota ones went missing, so some stainless allen-headed M18x1.5 plugs will do the trick. Sometimes I win… this is a common thread size for oxygen sensors, so easy enough to buy some “bungs” to suit.

Hilux diff filler and drain plugs... AKA oxygen sensor bungs..png
Hilux diff filler and drain plugs... AKA oxygen sensor bungs..png (37.95 KiB) Viewed 601 times

All the driveline fluids that can spill have to have their vents routed to a catch can – sideplate, radiator, gearbox etc. I bought a catch can a while back, but hadn’t thought through how I would route the diff breather. Confirmed I don’t need to run the diff breather to a catch can. The diff will not build up overmuch pressure, so it is acceptable to replace the breather with a supercharger casing relief/vent press button. A quick press of the button before each run to vent the diff housing, and all good to go. The Hilux breather thread is ¼ BSP… would never have thought Toyota would use that thread, but guess metric tapered thread is not so common anywhere. Will need to drill and tap it out to 7/16UNF to suit the relief/vent button.

supercharger relief vent button... works for diffs too.jpg
supercharger relief vent button... works for diffs too.jpg (6.57 KiB) Viewed 601 times

Got the cable shortened for the shifter. I should have asked first, as it cost more than a new cable from the US. Lesson learned, and at least it works.

Got all the removable chassis/steering stuff pulled back off again and shipped off to the chrome plater. 18 pieces in total. The fancy ARP stainless bolts to put it all back together are on their way from the US.

Parts for chroming.jpg
Parts for chroming.jpg (100.75 KiB) Viewed 601 times

The tailshaft proved problematic. I learned that there are two Hilux diff flange patterns… mine is the 60x60mm square pattern, not the 56x64mm pattern. The tailshaft is only tiny (about 230mm)… essentially two unis welded back-to-back. Hardy Spicer were a little wary, as there is not much room for error. A standard shaft has a lot of “slip” to allow for suspension movement. The FED has no suspension, hence no slip and little “play” to account to measurement error. I picked up the tailshaft yoke to check bottomed-out clearance to let Hardy’s finish the tailshaft design. This is where things came unglued… the space I have is 12mm too short for them to work to. I’ve had a chat with Sydney Driveline Services, who I’ve used before. They reckon they can make it fit, so shipped to yoke over to them. Fingers crossed. Got the four fancy 10mm driveshaft bolts sorted.

Picked up the angle drive from the machinist. It now drives both a magneto and the McGee pump (that pump is mighty tight to the engine plate, but fits).

Angle drive.jpg
Angle drive.jpg (130.84 KiB) Viewed 601 times

Fuel tank got made up, and trial fitted. Back to the fabricator again to have a mounting tray made up.

Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
User avatar
Harv
Posts: 4998
Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 2:00 pm
State: NSW
Location: Sydney, Australia

Re: Harv's FED thread

Post by Harv »

Got some more done on the FED.

Got some help to make up the template for a windshield, then drilled out the cowl for fasteners. Removed all the panels and took them off to the paint shop for painting. Plain aluminium inside, colour outside. Colour choice and paint type is a secret for now, as is the name to be painted on it. Hint... you won't miss it in a crowd :mrgreen: . It will be a while before I need the panels, but good to get them sorted and safely stored away.

Got the driveshaft shortened, and fitted up. Half that yoke snout had to be machined off as the shorty Powerglide does not accept much of the yoke before bottoming out.

Shortened driveshaft.jpg
Shortened driveshaft.jpg (906.7 KiB) Viewed 552 times
Shortened driveshaft installed.jpg
Shortened driveshaft installed.jpg (812.4 KiB) Viewed 552 times
Got the transmission cooler bypass line (no cooler) bent up and fitted (now that was one nasty bend to make).

trans cooler.jpg
trans cooler.jpg (610.51 KiB) Viewed 552 times

Got the diff breather in the post, drilled out the diff and fitted it. Then had it pointed out to me that it will sit under my left knee. Bugger. Need to cap that off and relocate.

Got the fuel tank tray made up and installed, along with the fuel tank. It has an interesting breather, which is an internal tube. The open end sites just inside the cap, and the other end passes out the tank wall at the forward face. It allows breathing, but also acts as a rollover valve if the FED turns turtle. Neat.

fuel tank.jpg
fuel tank.jpg (866.56 KiB) Viewed 552 times

Got the fuel lines for both pump suction and primary return run along with the filter. Decided to go -8AN (5/8”) on the suction and -6AN (1/2”) on the return. Made the lines up in stainless, then realised my normal steel bundy tube benders do not have enough grunt (after crimping several attempts). Bit the bullet and bought a pair of Ridgid benders. The cheapo ones have two flat dies that guide (and sometimes crimp) the tube. The Ridgid heavy duty ones have a die on one side and a pair of rollers on the other. They make beautiful bends in stainless, though harder to get the bend hard up against the flare fittings. Fuel lines now run back to the motor, ready to bend and trim once the manifolds are in place.

fuel lines.jpg
fuel lines.jpg (974.64 KiB) Viewed 552 times

Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
Blacky
Posts: 12100
Joined: Tue Jul 20, 2004 8:58 am
State: WA
Location: up in the Perth hills

Re: Harv's FED thread

Post by Blacky »

Good progress mate 👍
When you're faced with an unpleasant task that you really don't want to do, sometimes you just have to dig deep down inside and somehow find the patience to wait for someone else to do it for you.


Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
User avatar
Harv
Posts: 4998
Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 2:00 pm
State: NSW
Location: Sydney, Australia

Re: Harv's FED thread

Post by Harv »

The axles arrived, so got excited - time for a complete diff, brakes and wheels!

Drilled out and tapped to relocate the diff breather so it is no longer under my left knee (squishy knees and hard breathers do not mix). Went to screw in the ARP studs for the centre, and they were tight. Triple checked the thread (M8x1.25), all ok. Figured the threads were dirty, so tapped one. Took more force than normal for thread chasing. It then dawned on me that they are not blind holes, and loose threads could wick diff oil. Methinks Toyota cut them tight for a reason. Put the tap away, and used the double nut trick to get the studs in.

Backing plates on, axles in, drill rotors for 1/2” studs (trip to Bunnings for 14mm drill) and ready for calipers. Then it all turned to custard.

The diff is set up for VN-VS Commodore rear brakes. I bought new rotors, and reco’d a pair of calipers (sexy red paint is good for an extra 5mph). Commodore wheels are positive offset, so the bulky calipers have lots of space to tuck UNDER the car (inboard). There is not much room inboard on the FED… the calipers want to push inside the body by 22mm 😞

Looks like my el-cheapo plan to run Commodore brakes is not going to work. Willwood calipers are slimmer, and both rotors and calipers are much, much lighter. Dummies up Number 1 Son’s Willwood rears (much to his disgust) and they fit all except the bracket mount. Took lots of measurements, time to peruse the Willwood catalogue.

Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
User avatar
Harv
Posts: 4998
Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 2:00 pm
State: NSW
Location: Sydney, Australia

Re: Harv's FED thread

Post by Harv »

IMG_0596.jpeg
IMG_0596.jpeg (3.12 MiB) Viewed 496 times
IMG_0597.jpeg
IMG_0597.jpeg (2.52 MiB) Viewed 496 times
IMG_0598.jpeg
IMG_0598.jpeg (2.96 MiB) Viewed 496 times
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
User avatar
Harv
Posts: 4998
Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 2:00 pm
State: NSW
Location: Sydney, Australia

Re: Harv's FED thread

Post by Harv »

Wilwood brakes... this has to be easy, right?

Fitting Wilwood brakes onto a Commodore-type diff flange is not going to be easy. There are some Aussie mobs fitting Wilwood brakes to various Conformadores, but they are set up for a standard diff and are road-type brakes (not the light drag version I need).

Some thinking and a call to Wilwood managed to scare them off. I would normally call Hoppers Stoppers, though they are not a fan of Wilwood stuff (not ADR approved). If anyone knows of a mob in Australia custom fitting Wilwood brakes to race cars please let me know, otherwise it looks like I need to reverse engineer this on my own. Praying I don't screw this up as the parts are expensive, and I will not get to test-fit them... have to work off the drawings and get it right first time.

This is the starting point - hub offset and clearance to the body panels. Measurements were taken one afternoon using plywood to dummy up the body - need to double check those measurements to be sure to be sure.

Brakes hub offset.png
Brakes hub offset.png (102.42 KiB) Viewed 454 times

Basic setup as per below. Massive pedal ratio, so the 7/8" master that I have will be more than adequate (one thing Wilwood was happy to confirm).

Brakes overview.png
Brakes overview.png (118.2 KiB) Viewed 454 times

Some Googling through the Wilwood online catalogue shows a rear-wheel drag race brake kit that is a close match to what I need (140-0263), but the rotor hat has too much offset (pushes the brakes inboard too far). Changing out the hat to another one looks like a winner. Lots of cut-and-paste of Wilwood images with MS Paint and some calculations gives this:

Brakes dimensions.png
Brakes dimensions.png (59 KiB) Viewed 454 times

Looks like it will work. There is some room for brackets, made from 3/8 ally plate (probably 6061). Wilwood use clinch nuts for the fasteners on their brackets, but I suspect that I will need to use countersunk bolts instead.

brakes brackets.png
brakes brackets.png (13.85 KiB) Viewed 454 times

Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
EK283
Posts: 2315
Joined: Thu Mar 16, 2006 9:51 pm
State: NSW
Location: SYDNEY NSW

Re: Harv's FED thread

Post by EK283 »

Hi Harv,

All great stuff and reading.

A question, who did your fuel tank ?

Regards Greg
So many cars so little time!
User avatar
Harv
Posts: 4998
Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 2:00 pm
State: NSW
Location: Sydney, Australia

Re: Harv's FED thread

Post by Harv »

Richard Botica, the same gentleman who built the chassis.

Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
Blacky
Posts: 12100
Joined: Tue Jul 20, 2004 8:58 am
State: WA
Location: up in the Perth hills

Re: Harv's FED thread

Post by Blacky »

Harv,

A question from the uneducated , why not modify the bodywork to go around the caliper ???
When you're faced with an unpleasant task that you really don't want to do, sometimes you just have to dig deep down inside and somehow find the patience to wait for someone else to do it for you.


Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
User avatar
Harv
Posts: 4998
Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 2:00 pm
State: NSW
Location: Sydney, Australia

Re: Harv's FED thread

Post by Harv »

It would be a fair size "bulge" (a little unsightly).


... and mainly because some idiot took the panels away to be painted before finalising the brakes (the same idiot checked the wheels did not rub, but assumed the brakes would sit inside).

Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
Post Reply