Ammo's Ute

[gledge]

Hey Roger I bought Currie axles for mine from rodtech and I think they were $750 ish a pair


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[EK283]

Indeed axle resplinining re tempering is expensive.

I can also tell you I have had mixed results with the resplines for strength, I have sheared an axle where the spline ends on the axle and I have stripped the splines completely off !!

My fix at the time was Mark Williams axles from USA. I have 2 sets of these in 2 cars, one a racer and the other the EK zero problems at this stage.

It also depends on what you are going to drive like and what punishment they will get.

$750 is peace of mind I must admit.

Regards Greg

[Harv]

Number One Son had a set of locally made 31 spline axles in the BW78 in his VL. That thing only has two speeds - flat out and stop. He snapped the axle off flush with the bearing. Thankfully it was done at 10km/h, not 110. Wheel and brake assembly came adrift, car became three-legged and he pulled it up. Bent brake lines and busted the slave. Change of undies. It's worth the money for the Williams axles.

Cheers,
Harv

[ehsv6]

In my supercharged V6 EH I have a B/W shortened to original EH length, the short axle became the long axle with an 1/8 inch removed, the long axle was resplined with no treatment. As insurance I got an an extra axle done for $100 at the time. Its been drag raced and done plenty of driving events, hope I havent just jinxed myself.

[Errol62]

With the 202 you could probably get away with whittling one out of a mallee pole.

I jest, hah hah….


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[Wrongway Roger]

A spoke to my machinist mate and he said he could do it but suggested Rod Tech as they were set up to this.
He also said not to anneal the axles as they are deep case hardened, which makes sense.
Case hardened for what little wear there would be on the spline.
Hopefully I will get the speak with Rod before he closes for Christmas.

Cheers,
Roger

[Harv]

A coincidence, but just got a phone call from Number 1 Son. He's managed to snap the second locally made axle (other time this side) in his VL. Wheel stayed on this time, or at least so far. Thankfully it was at stop/start traffic speed again. On a tilt tray and on his way home.

Would have been cheaper to buy him a tilt-tray.

Cheers,
Harv

[Wrongway Roger]

All ready to weld so I asked my neighbour to check my calculations.

Diff housing.jpg (76.48 KiB) Viewed 701 times

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All good until I remembered the disc mounts over the studs against the axle face.

Disc thickness.jpg (215.26 KiB) Viewed 701 times

Now I have the re-cut the diff tubes by 6.3mm per side to achieve the desired width of 1370mm.
That's why we measure and longer then check and recut.
cheers,
Roger

[Harv]

6.3mm shorter is fine. With my luck it would have been 6.3mm longer.

Cheers,
Harv

[Wrongway Roger]

A lucky mistake on my part.

[Wrongway Roger]

Located in the jig and all ready to weld, thanks again Gledge.
I will weld the bearing housing and spring pads, let it cool before removing it from the jig.

ready to weld (1).JPG (122.76 KiB) Viewed 606 times

Cheer,
Roger

[Wrongway Roger]

Diff all welded, ground and painted.
Waiting on one axle to be shorten by Rod Tech, hopefully by the end of next week.

I purchased a B&M Quicksilver shifter way back but I'm sure if I will use it.
Too big and ugly.

BM shifter.JPG (112.58 KiB) Viewed 486 times

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I was keen of a Lokar shifter but at nearly a grand, too much coin for me.

Lokart shifter.PNG (160.82 KiB) Viewed 486 times

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So now I'm leaning towards a T bar trimatic shifter from early commodore but these are scarce as I have found out.
Will possible combine with the top section on the centre console.
.
I did see this set up that looks ok but as 3 speed.

Ratchet shitfer.PNG (170.58 KiB) Viewed 486 times

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All thoughts welcomed.

Cheers,
Roger

[Harv]

I run the Hurst Promatic 2 shifter, which is similar to the Quicksilver. In the Promatic, you can readily discard the black shifter base. The shifter guts can then be floor mounted into a more refined console, similar to the Conformadore one. Not sure if you can do the same with the Promatic, or if the black bit is structural on them.

Cheers,
Harv

[EK283]

Yeah the lokar is expensive and to the unweary, like myself doesn't have the ability to ratchet.

So that means select D and drive letting the tranny do the shifting.

Its all show and no go !!

I used to have a quick silver shifter back in the day and that was good for fast shifting between gears.

Thats all the info I have.

Regards Greg

[Mick]

have a look at B&M unimatic i also like B&M pro ratchet