Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

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Errol62
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

Thanks Greg,
I previously have used a battery cable from starter motor mounting bolt to inner subframe leg. Following your suggestion I have replaced my body earth with larger wire.

Counting my chickens, I ensured good metal to metal on the offending indicator housing, fully expecting everything to now work. Well it made no difference. So I went around and started testing voltage drop and resistance of the circuit components.

Being a ute it has separate front and rear circuits for the indicators. Three of the four circuits appear to be fine and output a voltage signs, which flashes between 6 and 12 volts. Whereas the offending circuit is flashing between zero and 6 volts, measured at the loom where the indicator plugs in. It appears there is 6v drop either in the loom, or as I now suspect, the switch. I may be after a new indicator switch. I only have sedan types. The one in the car is originally from my panel van, as the ute had no indicators from factory.


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ardiesse
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by ardiesse »

I could probably spare an FE-FC indicator switch, as long as you don't mind installing inferior, earlier parts in your FB :)

Testing the indicators is one area where a digital multimeter is worse than an old-school one with a needle, and all the more so when the digital multimeter spends most of its time auto-ranging. So to chase down the voltage drop (and confirm that it's in the switch not the wiring), make up a short lead with male bullet connectors. Then unplug the indicator switch (yellow, light blue, dark blue) and connect the jumper between the yellow and light blue wires in the harness. All going well, the smoke should stay in, and the LH indicators should flash. If they flash at normal intensity, the trouble's in the switch. If not, the trouble's in the wiring. As a further check, you could unplug the flasher can and bridge between the pink and yellow wires. The LH indicators will now light up steadily, which will allow easier voltage measurements.

Rob
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Errol62
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

Thanks Rob. I wish I'd read this just before when I pulled the wheel off. Anyway I think the multimeter confirms low output at switch. All others are 3 - 12V.

If you can find me a working switch I'd be most grateful mate. I thought the FE switch may be different but MPC confirms they are same right through with the FB EK specials being the exception with the simpler switch. Why they bothered, can only assume they were off the shelf from prestlite or who ever. Interestingly EK only shows (M), nothing for auto.Image

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Errol62
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

Had to revisit the tappet cover gasket. The "new" one I fitted ha been on the shelf a while and seemed to have shrunk, and wasn't sealing at the back, leading to copious amounts of oil dripping fron my nice new gearbox.

This should fix it.Image
I always intended to fit one of these. Every red blue black six needs one. Car Parts Plus had one. $38, same as ebay minus postage.

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Errol62
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

All good intentions of fixing Indicators, high beam tell tale and wiring up tachometer over the break went out the window, but at least I got my love out for a cruise down to Goolwa barrage and a meal at the Whistle Stop Cafe.ImageThe estuary is chockers. Image
She didn't even bat an eyelid while I gave it a decent squirt on the way home.

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In the Shed
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by In the Shed »

Cool 👍. Are you using the old hand signals for turns? Hopefully it won’t stop you from making All Holden Day next weekend?

Stephen
A day in the shed beats a day at work!
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Errol62
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

It won’t Stephen. I tried signalling left yesterday and nearly lost control at Port elliot. It is only the front left, car originally came without indicators, and half the drivers on the road either don’t use them at all, or flick them on as they round the corner anyway, bay I WILL fix it.


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Errol62
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

I found a couple of thermostats and tested them on the stove. One seemed to open around 82C and the other didn't seem to be opening, so swapped out the current one. Went for a test drive but the gauge didn't get above 71C until I left it idling with the front of the radiator covered with rags. Got it up to 82C and sat there until I went for a drive and it came back down under 70C.ImageImageOne I pulled out has 160 stamped on the pellet. The other one tha didn't open previously has 82 stamped, so cooked them both up again and got the 82 one opening up. So I will give that one a try next.ImageI am thankful of the Redline O-ring style thermostat cover I picked up from gumtree, which makes changing easy at least.

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FbSTDwagon
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by FbSTDwagon »

So it’s just a nice cool motor then?
I thought the gun would show it cooking a bit higher and that the guage was inaccurate.
Seems all good though!
Drew
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Errol62
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

Changed thermostat again and much happier now. Warm afternoon drive to McLaren Vale, around 30C, gauge sitting on 77C. Up to 87C idling in the shed then backs off to 84 as the thermostat opens. Idle seems smoother even.

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EK283
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by EK283 »

90 degrees Celcius is the optimum temp for an engine to have the most efficient fuel burn.

It is a pain however when the temp climbs past this and the cooling system is unable to recover.

Greg
So many cars so little time!
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Errol62
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

Thanks Greg for your knowledge. Reassuring.

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