Leroy the EK Ute

Post photos of your pride and joy, or updates on your rebuild!

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Harv
Posts: 5020
Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 2:00 pm
State: NSW
Location: Sydney, Australia

Re: Leroy the EK Ute

Post by Harv »

thebrotherj wrote:Yeah Harv, those black snakes used to follow my old car everywhere I went, no matter how hard I tried to outrun them! I'm no conspiracy theorist, but I also have a theory those snakes are Police informants too. Just between you and me :shh: .
:lol: :lol: :lol:
thebrotherj wrote:Thanks for the booster tips - I have the horrid plastic unit from the VS and I am sure it won't clear. I just realised I typed VP up there, the car I wrecked was in fact a VS Wagon. Which was handy cos being a bench seat car, it also provided the handbrake setup with the lever beside the driver's seat... which I might install also.

Can you tell me - what CRS kit are you referring too? I think I'd head down the path of HR front end then ask CRS or someone else to supply the correct stub axle to allow me to run the VS discs. Thanks for the info.
:mrgreen: HR ball joint front end (mine was modified by CRS as part number FE02, I disassembled the crossmember and sent the bare member to them in Castlemaine with the control arms),
:mrgreen: Front mount rack and pinion kit (CRS part number RP01HRKIT, a bolt up job once CRS had modded the crossmember),
:mrgreen: Modified HR stubs (mine were modified by CRS as part number SA11, bolt up job using Commodore bearings),
:mrgreen: Commodore to Holden disk kit (CRS part number DB010, bolt up job),
:mrgreen: 26P rims from a VP Berlina, VP and VR with ABS/IRS, VT Aclaim V6 and VQ Statey Series 1 (the standard 43P Commodore rims foul on the tie-rod ends),
:mrgreen: VN/VP/VR/VS rotors, calipers and hoses. Experience in the wreckers shows VN-VS are very similar, though some small changes amongst the models and different options per car. I ended up with the finned alloy front caliper versions,
:mrgreen: VP LSD narrowed and re-bracket by V6 Conversions (couriered the diff to them in Moree, they couriered it back),
:mrgreen: HR disk brake front end "brake hose spring thingies" (Rare Spares part BP1005),
:mrgreen: Gemini booster (PBR VH151). There are a couple of You-and-I boosters, you want the one that has a non-angle-mounted master (from memory TF/TG were angled). This gives the easy-to-mount bracketry. The Gemini pushrod was lengthened by Hoppers Stoppers to suit the Foulcan booster. When the Gemini pushrod is correctly lengthened it is placed into the booster on top of the reaction disc. The pushrod should stick-up above the flat face of the booster by 1.5mm for correct pre-load.
:mrgreen: XA/B/C Falcon dual-circuit master (PBR part number P6258a).

Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
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thebrotherj
Posts: 660
Joined: Wed Aug 21, 2013 4:09 pm
State: NSW
Location: Sydney

Re: Leroy the EK Ute

Post by thebrotherj »

I'm on to the driver's side, have stripped under the dash ready to repair the rusted plenum on the weekend. I'm tidying up everything as I go, replacing globes in the dash, repairing any bodgy wiring, new clevis pins in the clutch and brake pedals etc... anyway, I'm missing the snap-clip on the clutch pedal at the pivot. Can't find any in my parts stash. Would anyone out there have one they can stick in an envelope & post to me for a few $$? It's this guy here:

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thanks in advance! :thumbsup:
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thebrotherj
Posts: 660
Joined: Wed Aug 21, 2013 4:09 pm
State: NSW
Location: Sydney

Re: Leroy the EK Ute

Post by thebrotherj »

Harv wrote:
thebrotherj wrote:Yeah Harv, those black snakes used to follow my old car everywhere I went, no matter how hard I tried to outrun them! I'm no conspiracy theorist, but I also have a theory those snakes are Police informants too. Just between you and me :shh: .
:lol: :lol: :lol:
thebrotherj wrote:Thanks for the booster tips - I have the horrid plastic unit from the VS and I am sure it won't clear. I just realised I typed VP up there, the car I wrecked was in fact a VS Wagon. Which was handy cos being a bench seat car, it also provided the handbrake setup with the lever beside the driver's seat... which I might install also.

Can you tell me - what CRS kit are you referring too? I think I'd head down the path of HR front end then ask CRS or someone else to supply the correct stub axle to allow me to run the VS discs. Thanks for the info.
:mrgreen: HR ball joint front end (mine was modified by CRS as part number FE02, I disassembled the crossmember and sent the bare member to them in Castlemaine with the control arms),
:mrgreen: Front mount rack and pinion kit (CRS part number RP01HRKIT, a bolt up job once CRS had modded the crossmember),
:mrgreen: Modified HR stubs (mine were modified by CRS as part number SA11, bolt up job using Commodore bearings),
:mrgreen: Commodore to Holden disk kit (CRS part number DB010, bolt up job),
:mrgreen: 26P rims from a VP Berlina, VP and VR with ABS/IRS, VT Aclaim V6 and VQ Statey Series 1 (the standard 43P Commodore rims foul on the tie-rod ends),
:mrgreen: VN/VP/VR/VS rotors, calipers and hoses. Experience in the wreckers shows VN-VS are very similar, though some small changes amongst the models and different options per car. I ended up with the finned alloy front caliper versions,
:mrgreen: VP LSD narrowed and re-bracket by V6 Conversions (couriered the diff to them in Moree, they couriered it back),
:mrgreen: HR disk brake front end "brake hose spring thingies" (Rare Spares part BP1005),
:mrgreen: Gemini booster (PBR VH151). There are a couple of You-and-I boosters, you want the one that has a non-angle-mounted master (from memory TF/TG were angled). This gives the easy-to-mount bracketry. The Gemini pushrod was lengthened by Hoppers Stoppers to suit the Foulcan booster. When the Gemini pushrod is correctly lengthened it is placed into the booster on top of the reaction disc. The pushrod should stick-up above the flat face of the booster by 1.5mm for correct pre-load.
:mrgreen: XA/B/C Falcon dual-circuit master (PBR part number P6258a).

Cheers,
Harv

this is awesome Harv. I'll be keeping this on file for that time down the track, thank you!
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thebrotherj
Posts: 660
Joined: Wed Aug 21, 2013 4:09 pm
State: NSW
Location: Sydney

Re: Leroy the EK Ute

Post by thebrotherj »

I've been chipping away inside the Ute. I cut out the rusted plenum drains on both sides, treated with Rust Converter, then primed and painted the lot before sealing with an elaborate bit of fabrication that is more solid than it looks... (don't judge me :shock: )... at least I can confirm that it's 100% watertight and drains properly. There have been previous rust repairs under the screen, I got right up in those also and sealed the old rusted bits pretty well. Truth be told, I doubt this car will see much rain again, or be parked under a tree so feeling vaguely confident things will hang together ok for a few years

Before and after pics

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Overhauled the vent flap & cable too. Sticky back foam strip from Bunnings that seals between a basin and benchtop worked perfectly as the seal, I spied that when I fitted a new bench in my kitchen last year...

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Though the firewall, pedal box, steering column and bracketry is all painted up, I'm still waiting on an order of small finishing parts from Rares before I can bolt the under-dash back together. So tonight, I trimmed up a parcel shelf I made out of corflute and the existing mdf kick panels in marine carpet.

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Made a start on installing some no-name brand resomat too... which brings things up to date :)

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In the Shed
Posts: 1872
Joined: Wed May 16, 2012 10:18 pm
State: SA
Location: South Australia

Re: Leroy the EK Ute

Post by In the Shed »

Is it just my eyes or ??? but that picture of your parcel shelf (no resonate) it looks like you have a blue head lining? Anyway keep the updates coming.

Regards
Stephen
A day in the shed beats a day at work!
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thebrotherj
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Joined: Wed Aug 21, 2013 4:09 pm
State: NSW
Location: Sydney

Re: Leroy the EK Ute

Post by thebrotherj »

In the Shed wrote:Is it just my eyes or ??? but that picture of your parcel shelf (no resonate) it looks like you have a blue head lining? Anyway keep the updates coming.

Regards
Stephen
Yep, previous owner Bill had a new hood lining fitted, non factory material in a blue/grey colour. Screens have been re-sealed and rust repaired round the front screen at the same time too I'd say.
If I was going all the way, I'd change it back to factory, but eh, it actually looks pretty good! I'm also happy that there's one less thing to tidy up.
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thebrotherj
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Location: Sydney

Re: Leroy the EK Ute

Post by thebrotherj »

well, 2017 is already proving to be busier than last year for this black duck. I've already played ten gigs, been to twice as many rehearsals and spent a number of weekends hammering away in recording studios or putting up bands who've been passing through town. Between that and my regular 9-5 gig, spare time has been scant.

nonetheless, I've made some pretty decent headway on the ute, chipping away whenever I can.

In February, I cut/chiselled out the rusted passenger side sheetmetal and discovered that previous repairs to floorpan, tie and inner sill were shoddy as hell. Being as my plan is to only get this car up to scratch as a rough looking but mechanically solid cruiser (ie: not committing to a full resto at this time), I've basically just been unpicking as much mess as I can in each area and then replacing with good metal, or reinforcing/improving upon what's already there. My welding skills are by no means great... often it doesn't look so flash, but I'm not blowing holes in things and penetration is always good, so it's all solid.

Some pics: cutting out the floor, revealing tie that was booger-welded to the partially replaced inner sill, on one side only, and using two different grades of sheet metal. Note also the mess on the sill top:

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Repairing the repairs... after heating up and correcting the dented tie channel, I welded it to the inner sill properly, sured it up with reinforcement (zapped to the tie at each fold) then boxed it in with a plate on top using some ugly plug welds, which got ground smooth ready for the new floor to go in. Inner sections all got treated with rust convertor then primer and paint too, will spray fish oil in from underneath before I seal it up:

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Here's how I prepped the floor pan: measured and drilled holes for plug welds along the inner sill and across the tie, then zapped it all in. Made up a few patches for the corners and a cut in a new section for the sill-top also.

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Then hit it all with primer, paint and seam sealer for good measure.

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I'll do another post later in the week with pics of all the other work I've done since this, so stay tuned ya filthy animals :twisted: 8)
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Errol62
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Re: Leroy the EK Ute

Post by Errol62 »

Hey good idea with the reinforcing in front tie. Just make sure it won't turn in to a rust trap.
Cheers
Clay


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thebrotherj
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Location: Sydney

Re: Leroy the EK Ute

Post by thebrotherj »

Errol62 wrote:Hey good idea with the reinforcing in front tie. Just make sure it won't turn in to a rust trap.
Cheers
Clay


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Thanks Clay and yeah, I was thinking about that. I couldn't think of a foolproof way to avoid that happening, but I did cut little D shapes into the bottom of the reinforcement so any water that got in wouldn't be trapped. But where would it run off to anyway?? haha

Not their finest hour, whoever designed this bit...




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thebrotherj
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Re: Leroy the EK Ute

Post by thebrotherj »

With the floor pan and a few patches all wrapped up on the passenger side, next up was the inner sill. It had a long plate of 2mm thick steel screwed over the top of it. Which is great, cos I need some 2mm thick steel for some repairs elsewhere on the car... but not great, because this was underneath (note the screw holes in the raised bosses):

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After cutting that back and treating what was left, I walked up to the Smash Repairer near my place and grabbed a fender out of the skip, then fashioned a replacement section using metal I cut out of that. It's thin, less than 0.8mm I reckon, but it welded in fine and is strong. No I'm not going to post a picture of the finished item, cos some of the overhead welds are plain embarrassing, but you get the idea:

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Next up, passenger front fender came off for a rust repair section, which went ok. This is my first ever attempt at any cosmetic/visible outer panel welding, once again not the prettiest, but seems fine and I took care not to warp the panels. Came up looking better than the rest of this beat up old panel anyway. Also fitted the chrome strip properly with some new mould retainers from Rares and bogged up the holes where the chrome 'naked Cowgirl' badge was. A throwback to when Leroy had a cow print roof I guess? Managed to use thinners to spread some blue paint over the bog in the filled holes, that'll do for now

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It's getting late, I'll try to catch up with more progress pics soon :arrow: Cheers, J
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thebrotherj
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Re: Leroy the EK Ute

Post by thebrotherj »

I've been hard at it, working my way round the front of the ute, one task at a time on weekends and most weeknights.

Next on the rust removal agenda was the battery tray/inner guard repair featuring a number plate that once hung from the 1987 Mitsubishi Magna ELITE that my Grandpa trundled around Maitland in until he couldn't drive anymore. He left this mortal coil late last year at 99 years of age, so I'm glad this little piece of his legacy is now a permanent part of the Ute. Alas, I'm making a battery tray that will cover it from sight, but I like that it's there.

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Another section repaired previously, extremely solidly but with absolutely no consideration for form... is the LH front corner of the front clip. It has been plated over with hefty gauge steel. After a good look at it from inside and out, Ive decided to leave it in place for now, though I have sured it up with some neater welding and tidied the rest with the grinder.

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Only problem was, the D bush bracket for the sway bar on that side was never reinstated, the locating tongue was cut off it and the whole show was just hanging loose on that side. Hmmm.

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So my solution was to weld together two seat belt anchors plates, add some captive nuts, recess that into the box section (so it was back to correct height of the original chassis mount), then modify the D bracket to accept a second bolt and voila! Back in business.

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More updates soon :)
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thebrotherj
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Re: Leroy the EK Ute

Post by thebrotherj »

Finally pulled my finger out and had a go at the one repair I've been putting off: rust in the lower body where the front subframe arm bolts to the body.

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After making up an elaborate cardboard template, then planning the fabrication and installation a million times in my head... I hooked in.

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I used 2mm plate for this whole contraption for extra rigidity.

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One thing I kept in mind was accessing the back of as many welds as possible so I could wire brush and paint them before sealing it up. I'm happy that the entire length of the inner sill and floor pan welds are all now painted from behind. Plenty of fish oil sprayed down there too.

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Dummy fit with correct depth for the bolt now established, so that K frame arm & the new section pick up the shank of the bolt just right. I did this by welding on washers and then drilling to the correct diameter. I also welded in a crush tube, not that there is any crush load on it... but I just wanted to box the whole thing in. Overkill, but anyway:

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Then it was a matter of inserting a plate for the end of the sill, which would also pick up the new floorpan. Some fiddly bits also added where I didn't measure quite right... and then welded it all in.

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With the whole thing welded in, time to test fit the fender, which sat in precisely the right spot. What a bloody relief.

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Finally, made up the last panel to close it in and tidy up. Then I hit the whole floorpan and repair with seam sealant and painted.

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DONE.
Trev
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Re: Leroy the EK Ute

Post by Trev »

Great progress, keep it up mate.


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thebrotherj
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Re: Leroy the EK Ute

Post by thebrotherj »

Trev wrote: Thu May 18, 2017 3:23 am Great progress, keep it up mate.


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Thanks Trev! Heaps more done since then, will try to catch up with the rest soon :arrow:
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Errol62
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Re: Leroy the EK Ute

Post by Errol62 »

May not be the prettiest job bro but looks very solid. Be back on the road where it should be in no time. Being driven


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