WA fb special

[mph]

Im not sure what colour for the steelies yet,
Id like white steelies but not sure its look alright with the white wall , it might be to much. not aloud blackies
was maybe thinking a off white or cream or a grey like gun metal any thoughts

chromies

i have no rod at the moment for my bench seat so that may just give me a option

looking good man, must be a good feeling having a drive...

Cheers
Nathan

ill try get a pic for you mate

[Errol62]

Visors don't have a bush but you should be able to make them sit by tightening the clamp screw.
Sounds like your doing everything right for the horn to work. Mystery.


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[Blacky]

Im not sure what colour for the steelies yet, My choice would be some period hubcaps with body colour rims , what size are they , 14 or 15 inch ??
Id like white steelies but not sure its look alright with the white wall , it might be to much. not aloud blackies
was maybe thinking a off white or cream or a grey like gun metal any thoughts

Horn button issue with the steering wheel off i should be able to bridge a wire from the steering shaft to the gold steering contact ring and the horn should sound?
1. i have continuity from the gold column ring to the tan wire at the horn
2. i have continuity from the column spline to the ignition switch,door switch,sill scuff plate screw any bare metal i found
3. i have continuity from the steering wheel splines to the little gold spring contactor in the steering wheel when pushing the horn button as per normal operation to sound a horn. (wheels of the car)
4. i put 12v from the battery straight to the horn and it works - to which contact ??? Red or Tan ???? If you earth the tan wire at the horn does it sound ???
5. i put a wire from the gold ring to the shaft spline and other earth spots and nothing
6. The red wire at the horn has 12v sitting ready as it should i believe
Any more ideas

Regarding the coil with the red motor, the original coil wire i used as a trigger wire on a relay and ran a solid 12v through the switched relay to the coil now but the car wont shut of with the key im sure it used to shut off with this set up but its been a fair while since i last had it running . any ideas ? may be getting a backfeed from the alternator - a diode might sort that out ?

With the internal sun visors do they have a bush or something between the roof bracket and the visor shaft? mine keep dropping down.

Thanks gang

[mph]

Im not sure what colour for the steelies yet, My choice would be some period hubcaps with body colour rims , what size are they , 14 or 15 inch ??
Id like white steelies but not sure its look alright with the white wall , it might be to much. not aloud blackies
was maybe thinking a off white or cream or a grey like gun metal any thoughts

Horn button issue with the steering wheel off i should be able to bridge a wire from the steering shaft to the gold steering contact ring and the horn should sound?
1. i have continuity from the gold column ring to the tan wire at the horn
2. i have continuity from the column spline to the ignition switch,door switch,sill scuff plate screw any bare metal i found
3. i have continuity from the steering wheel splines to the little gold spring contactor in the steering wheel when pushing the horn button as per normal operation to sound a horn. (wheels of the car)
4. i put 12v from the battery straight to the horn and it works - to which contact ??? Red or Tan ???? If you earth the tan wire at the horn does it sound ???
5. i put a wire from the gold ring to the shaft spline and other earth spots and nothing
6. The red wire at the horn has 12v sitting ready as it should i believe
Any more ideas

Regarding the coil with the red motor, the original coil wire i used as a trigger wire on a relay and ran a solid 12v through the switched relay to the coil now but the car wont shut of with the key im sure it used to shut off with this set up but its been a fair while since i last had it running . any ideas ? may be getting a backfeed from the alternator - a diode might sort that out ?

With the internal sun visors do they have a bush or something between the roof bracket and the visor shaft? mine keep dropping down.

Thanks gang

The rims are 14 hg or ht with the rear reversed so it would have to have some center caps that would fit them not a fan of hq though
For the horn test itself it was out of the car, i had just scrap figure 8 cable from a battery to the horn on the work bench but ill try your idea out.
After doing some 12v diode research on the net you might be onto it blacky
Cheers

[mph]

horn works weird that the car would crank over and run but seems the battery didnt have enough kahunis to crank the horn or the horn what some what seized and needed a few good solid blasts to free it up and blow the webs out. after doing other things to the car for a bit and having car running the horn is back in action with car on or off.

When i was re wiring the car i ran a new pink wire to replace the original pink coil wire thinking it was a resistive wire but it wasnt later found out thats later holdens but its done now also ran a new red + down to the coil .i had the pink on the dizzy and red on the coil. i tried some diode relays with no luck so i canned the red wire, the dizzy and coil run together now on the pink wire and the car starts and stops as it should now with the key. i tonged the pink wire its around 2a-3a so shouldnt cause any burn issues
Cheers gang

[Errol62]

That's typical logic defying early Holden electrics.


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[mph]

Visors don't have a bush but you should be able to make them sit by tightening the clamp screw.
Sounds like your doing everything right for the horn to work. Mystery.

awesome thanks mate


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Awesome thanks mate

[mph]

The front seat wire.

[mph]

Any ideas how to remove this last nut on the hg bango diff , its spinning the nut and the thread rod together but not removing itself.

[ekstevo]

Any ideas how to remove this last nut on the hg bango diff

I gather you haven't got a gas axe? If you have an oxy acetylene put the cutting torch on and blow it away .

[oz_ek]

Any ideas how to remove this last nut on the hg bango diff , its spinning the nut and the thread rod together but not removing itself.

I'm guessing your only interested in the diff centre?.....If so, I would cut open the back of the housing, find another nut of similar size to the knackered one, tack weld it on top of the knackered one, stick your hand in the newly cut hole, spin the bolt, put some more weld on the new nut, now put some weld on the bolt from the inside, done!

[Errol62]

Centre punch the stud and drill out so the nut comes off would be tidiest. Hard part will be getting the bit aligned due to drill body fouling carrier and pinion flange.

This can happen when an early housing is converted to take later 3.08 or 2.78 carrier. A longer stud is required which can be achieved by means of inserting a bolt of the desired length but needs to be tack welded to the inside of the housing to prevent this problem.


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[mph]

Yea im just after the center out of it . the center put in the lj diff in my fb is no good.
With the tyres size, trimatic and 3.55 ratio i wasnt to keen on having a longer ratio, but are these diff centers with longer lower bolts 3.08. The diff from a 6cyl manual hg panel van
im going to try drill the nut off

[oz_ek]

[quote="mph"]Yea im just after the center out of it . the center put in the lj diff in my fb is no good.
With the tyres size, trimatic and 3.55 ratio i wasnt to keen on having a longer ratio, but are these diff centers with longer lower bolts 3.08. The diff from a 6cyl manual hg panel van
im going to try drill the nut off[/quote

The long bolt housing will have either a 3.08 or 2.78 centre, the ratio should be stamp on the pinion flange/cover.

Holden-Banjo-diff-fine-Spline-_57.jpg (165.93 KiB) Viewed 1356 times

[Errol62]

That ratio is probably out of a Torana auto so welcome home to your LJ housing. HG 6 van would have been 3:55 or 3:36 originally. I've run 3:08 behind 192 Aussie 4spd and 3.3 trimatic in my sedan very happily. EK and torana about the same weight and wheel size.


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