fbekholden.com

Balance is finally restored to the universe... And the stone tray bolts have finally been installed. Thanks for pointing out the blue fender issue - can't believe I hadn't noticed that before. I think the number plate's gonna stay how it is though. I think I prefer it hanging below rather than stick...

These adjustable boot spring tensioners are the best. The old posts on my EK needed to be drilled and ground out (they definitely weren't press fit). But the result was excellent - after manufacturing a spring installation tool and cutting my hand open a couple of times, there is not doubt that the ...

I think the reason I never noticed it was that I spend most of my time in the driver's seat looking out...

What's wrong with my number plate?

Yeah it is. That never occurred to me until you mentioned it. Thanks.

Thanks fellas, I found some in the High Tensile range at the local hardware shop. For some reason none of them were attached to bottom of the grille...

Cheers,
Iain

Hi,

Sorry to be taking the lazy option - I've just noticed the bolts at the bottom of my front grille are all missing. Can someone let me know what sort of bolts I need to get to secure the grille to the stone tray?

Cheers,
iain

If I understand it correctly, that loose Trim Plate matches the way my car (EK3518-A) is painted and trimmed. ie. Strata Blue with a Snowcrest White roof, and Viscount and Zenith Blue interior. Ahh - the penny finally dropped. I see from earlier posts that the Body ID number is different from the V...

Hi, I've got an EK Special Sedan which doesn't have an ID plate attached, but the Body ID is: EK3581 A. When I bought the car it came with a whole lot of spares, including the following Body ID Plate: BODY: EK225-1303-A TRIM 681-966 PAINT: 585-0245 TOP: 585-0246 If I understand it correctly, that lo...

Success! I contacted RestoCountry who sold me the first unit and they arranged for it to be sent back. They posted me a new unit once I emailed them the post office parcel receipt. The new unit arrived on Friday and I went with Permatex on each side of the rubber gasket, Stag on the threads and I us...

Thanks for the great advice guys. I re-installed for the fourth time now using Stag jointing paste on the threads and under the heads of the bolts, and I used the Permatex Aviation gasket goo on a rubber gasket. The good news is the bolts and gasket don't leak - the bad news is that the reproduction...

Thanks for the advice everyone.After trying both a new set of crush washers with the rubber gasket, and fibre washers, it's clear neither of those have worked. So I've got some Stag Jointing Paste for the threads (and I was going to sneak some between the bolt heads the flange), but I thought I shou...

Thanks guys - that's what I thought. I was pretty surprised to see the screws didn't contact the sill.I haven't taken the other scuff plates off, but it sounds like it's either a new sill or a previous owner has filled the holes (either properly or with body filler). I had replaced some screws on an...

I've got what seems to be a silly question. I bought a replacement Front driver scuff plate to replace a badly damaged one. I bought it from Rares before I read the posts about Sam Crupi's unfortunately. Anyway the new one arrived today and I thought I'd just switch them over and re-glue the door ru...

Thanks all for the photos. Based on that additional info and Harv's horror story I made a longer pin (42mm). Everything bench tested really well, but it hasn't worked on the car. I think there's two problems; I think the EJ/EH cable is too short and there's insufficient play, but the main problem se...

Thanks Stephen, That' a mighty helpful photo. Today I took Rob's advice and removed the sleeve from an old cable. I chopped it don and screwed it to the other end of my new cable. I also manufactured a brass pin, which I'm going to soft solder on tomorrow I hope. I guessed my dimensions and I've com...